The most iconic Mapplethorpe look consists of a motorcycle jacket, a pair of leather trousers, a worn-in pair of Western boots, a leather sailor cap, and—sometimes—a turtleneck. This was, and still is, the ultimate “leather daddy” uniform. Lest we forget much of Mapplethorpe’s work examined BDSM culture in New York, and he himself was a … Read more
Joseph Altuzarra emailed personal invitations to his show. In a normal season that would’ve required clicking send on 600 or so individual notes. But this was his 15th anniversary, and, as he said in his invite, he wanted to honor it with “those who have supported me throughout my career.” He brought together a group … Read more
“I didn’t want the collection to be cold or distant,” said Joseph Altuzarra of his 15-plus-piece debut presentation. No chance of that. His are the kind of of-the-moment, body-conscious clothes made for raising, ahem, emotions in hot-blooded males. With the forties and eighties as reference points, Altuzarra turned out ruched dresses in white stretch matte … Read more
As a small business located right at the intersection of Nolita and the Lower East Side, Snow Xue Gao holds one of the most covetable retail spots downtown. Not only are hundreds of people passing by her store every day, she’s also next to Supreme, with its endless parade of hype beasts stopping to take … Read more
Over the years Alice + Olivia has become known for its unapologetically bold pieces—like a rainbow assortment of suiting or logo stamped blouses, which, by the way, happens to be a caricature that captures the joyful essence of the founder Stacey Bendet in her signature oversized sunglasses. For fall 2024, the brand continued to double … Read more
Derek Lam is back in the New York Fashion Week mix. In January, he was named creative director of Callas Milano, the brand founded by his husband Jan-Hendrik Schlottmann and Marco Panzeri as a direct-to-consumer source of well-designed Italian-made essentials. Though its profile remains small, its name is whispered by in-the-know shoppers who appreciate the … Read more
The Internet is a scary place. It can also be a very bleak one, which is something that designer Maisie Schloss was confronted by as she worked on her fall lineup. “A huge through line of this brand has been studying digital culture and observing and analyzing the way we live online,” said Schloss, calling … Read more
For Jonathan Cohen, this coming fall starts with Karen O. Well, with the Yeah Yeah Yeahs. Well, with the Yeah Yeah Yeahs playing live in New York some years back when Cohen was in the audience, as visually dazzled as he was sonically. He took pictures of the light show on his iPhone, and it’s … Read more
“Someone has said that you don’t create your own dreams, rather a dream is given to you and it’s up to you to embrace it. That is what Lisa and I did 10 years ago, and the dream was to create something special out of this historical yarn with roots in China, combined with a … Read more
“I wanted it to feel like a teenager’s bedroom, with messiness and awkwardness,” said Gerrit Jacob, describing his show, which opened Berlin Fashion Week. The spectacle lasted around five minutes in the former premises of a multi-story fashion shop, which, with its rough structural condition, provided the perfect setting for his first physical show in … Read more
