London maintains its reputation as a center for cutting-edge fashion because of talents like Aaron Esh. The designer, who is currently receiving support and mentorship from the Saraband Foundation, presented an evocative sophomore collection in a salon-style presentation at the organization’s East London headquarters. A quick glance at the front row revealed Esh’s industry endorsement. … Read more
We could begin by focusing in on the pea green opera coat with its extravagantly exaggerated collar at the start of the Erdem show, and then flick to the same silhouette at the finale, this time strewn with a rose print on white satin, but quilted, almost like the memory of a 1950s housecoat. In … Read more
“We print everything in house. We cut everything in house. Yes, the beading is done elsewhere, but everything is made in house.” So said Richard Quinn immediately after a show whose freshly-carpeted salon venue at the Andaz London was swathed in 900 square meters of his signature floral fabric. That fabric, he added, had already … Read more
“I feel good about it all,” remarked David Koma at a preview. Over the past couple of seasons, the designer’s demeanor before his shows has noticeably relaxed, a testament to his confidence in his own work—a growth that’s fantastic to witness. Consistent with his dedication to honoring accomplished women in creative realms, Koma found inspiration … Read more
For fall, Kozaburo Akasaka was continuing the narrative he began with his spring collection, which was inspired by the characters that inhabit his imaginary utopia. This season, which he titled “Night Fall,” was inspired by a trip to Texas, his visit to the Rothko Chapel in Houston, and the Stephen King novel Dark Tower. All … Read more
For a moment last year, the internet was overrun by a trend dubbed “tomato girl summer.” Cosplaying an Italian vacation warranted an entire style of dress filled with cotton poplin, tomato red, gingham, and raffia. Chelsea Hansford, the creative director and CEO of Simon Miller, followed similar inspiration for her spring 2024 collection, which she … Read more
Ahead of his debut Dunhill show in London, Simon Holloway hosted Vogue Runway at a preview amid a frenzy of fittings. Despite the tense atmosphere at the brand’s Mayfair HQ, his pristine showroom was organized to a level of meticulousness that only a seasoned designer, along with a world class team behind him, could achieve … Read more
If anxiety over independent labels’ ability to survive in 2024 New York was reaching a fever pitch outside the gallery, inside there was a feeling of an alternate New York Fashion Week. A group of looks from Chris Peters’s CDLM project greeted people as they walked in, including a printed cotton dress “accessorized” with a vintage … Read more
It is an anecdotal truth that even the most metropolitan of Brits—among them Kate Moss and Charlotte Tilbury and the model Jade Parfitt—reach a point in their lives when the glamour of the West Country becomes irresistible: the darlings, the dachshunds, the image of disco balls strewn across Grade II–listed estates. You get the impression … Read more
Many of us are feeling a renewed urge to dress up. It means different things for different people; be it a pair of heels, a statement hat, or even an old fur. Yes, real fur—in addition to faux—seems to be back on the New York streets. Maria Cornejo is feeling for a more polished look … Read more
