This season, Yasuko Furuta gave it the razzle-dazzle—a quick skim through a rail of her clothes revealed some show-stopping sequins, frills, and shine. As is custom, though, the Toga designer’s commentary on her exuberant fall collection was short and sweet: she mentioned states of dress and undress, as well as the spirit of the 19th-century … Read more
Peter Do named his new collection Áo Dài and dedicated it to his late grandmother. An áo dài is a traditional Vietnamese uniform consisting of a long straight-cut tunic worn over a pair of matching elastic waist pants, usually in silk; it’s an outfit he remembers her wearing when he was a young child. At … Read more
At Armarium the concept of care is a fusion of aesthetics and functionality. It can be seen in the attention to crucial details when observing the garments up close. To enter designer Giorgia Gabriele’s world, it is necessary to get closer. Armarium is born from what she wants in her own wardrobe. “Tailoring has always … Read more
He delivered a taut, impeccably controlled silhouette which stretched across and around the body hither and thither, in the shape of bow-neck blouses, pencil skirts, and draped dresses to just below the knee, the shapes the very definition of propriety even if the sheerness wasn’t. All of this came in a beautiful palette that ranged … Read more
This September will mark 20 years since Andreas Melbostad’s New York Fashion Week debut as the creative director of Phi, a line backed by Susan Dell. Just under two years ago, the Norwegian designer—who has an impressive résumé that includes stints working at Calvin Klein and DKNY, with Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, and as the … Read more
Of the four meanings Merriam-Webster assigns to the word “compile,” the third—“to build up gradually”—seems to resonate most with the cadence, and dimensional materiality of Daisuke Obana’s latest project, a seasonal film called Fashion Zombies that crescendos into a surprising conclusion. (Watch it above.) Obana, a one-time vintage dealer turned collector and designer, stepped away … Read more
What a shame. As the small-font list of names on the credit sheet attested, a lot of people worked hard to get this afternoon’s planned Anrealage show ready to go. But in a twist that could almost have been scripted (by an especially sadistic writer), the always futuristic plans of Kunihiko Morinaga were today undone … Read more
The Ester Manas digital invitation was printed with a bouquet of flowers bearing a note, “missed you,” and a red lipstick kiss. Founders Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre haven’t shown on the runway since February 2023 despite winning the Andam Special Prize, worth €100,000, in May. The idea behind the break, they explained backstage, was … Read more
The validity of the runway format is a topic of much discussion this season as business tightens in the face of global uncertainties. After heralding the rebranding of Simkhai with a fall 2023 show in New York, the designer has temporarily stepped away from the catwalk. “It’s a really fun process and I really enjoy … Read more
The House of Dagmar is having its day as the business expands rapidly in the U. S. Yet it was the illuminator of the night sky, the moon, that Sofia Wallenstam had in sight while creating the fall collection, which was, more generally, about shape. “We really worked from the circle,” said Wallenstam on a … Read more
