For fall, Nanushka’s Sandra Sándor went back to memory lane to her teenage years growing up in Hungary. Before the fall of the Iron Curtain in 1989, crossing borders was forbidden; fashion was anathema. Sándor and her family traveled extensively within the country, so her sense of fashion was initially shaped by the utilitarian folklore … Read more
“I love roses because they can mean so many things: romance, mystery, sexiness… there’s a lot of subtext there,” Zuhair Murad offered during a showroom preview for fall. With its rich, somber palette, lush fabrics and intricate embroideries, the lineup unfolded like a sort of fantasy stroll through a secret garden by night. The designer … Read more
Sometimes a dress silhouette becomes so pervasive you almost don’t notice its dominance. Right now, slinky, liquid maxi dresses that sheath the body while simultaneously leaving little to the imagination are having a moment. And a large proportion of them, at least judging by my social feeds, are exemplars by Tove. Co-founders Camille Perry and … Read more
Stefan Cooke showed his fall 24 collection in London to an audience of one. I’d been invited to sit in while he and his partner Jake Burt were shooting their lookbook, featuring a collection loosely based on the citizens band radio subculture which broke out into pop culture in the in the ’70s and ’80s. … Read more
Oh, old friend, how I’ve missed you. A year from last being in Paris for the shows, 12 months since last writing about The Row, and here I am, sitting once more at a show for Mary-Kate and Ashley’s label that has been doing quiet luxury—and sometimes not so quiet luxury—for so long now that … Read more
Making its Paris Fashion Week debut, the only Africa-based brand to make the official schedule is South Africa’s Maxhosa Africa. Traveling some 6,000 miles, founder and creative director Laduma Ngxokolo was keen to make his dream of showcasing in Paris a reality—something he had his sights set on for a while now. Showcasing at the … Read more
Simon Porte Jacquemus, 34, last night became the youngest fashion designer ever to be named Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres, the highest French ministerial award for cultural achievement. Vogue’s Anna Wintour presented Jacquemus with his freshly minted medal at a ceremony held at his new 8th arrondissement, 7,000-square meter company headquarters. Alongside the … Read more
Margaret Howell is allergic to branding, so it was a surprise to see a monogram sneak its way into her fall collection. That said, it was more of a cipher than a logo, comprising a tiny ‘MH’ written in her own hand and stitched on the pocket of a vegetable-dyed shirt. The brand’s head of … Read more
Quira’s fall presentation was held at the Oratoire du Louvre, a rather solemn location that framed what Veronica Leoni called “a raw, crude, textural collection.” The tension between abstraction and physicality, control and release is what makes her designs so compelling; here, she went for a more rigorous approach than in previous outings, indulging less … Read more
For both pre-fall and fall 2024, Christopher Esber is exploring the different facets of nostalgia. “I wanted to create this idea of summer past and present for day-to-evening and also express the idea of erosion and decay in textiles,” he explained via Zoom from his studio in Sydney. That translated into some compelling plays on … Read more
