Jean Touitou, the brand’s founder, credits A.P.C.’s collective approach to his own early days in Kenzo Takada’s studio. “It was an open place too, even if you were in the shipping department you could meet photographers. I had a dream to recreate this atmosphere,” he remembers. Judith, Jean’s wife, was the one who brought Natacha … Read more
As the fall 2024 collections drew to a close this week, one thing became obvious: fantasy is over. Show after show after show, designers invoked a “wardrobe” as their inspiration for the season: real clothes for real women living real lives. At Undercover, where Wim Wenders read a poem titled “Watching A Working Woman,” Jun … Read more
If the weather gods were on Shinya Kozuka’s side at his last show in the summer, tonight it seemed they were demanding payback. On possibly the most miserable rainy evening of the year so far, the designer held his fall show in the (drained, but still very wet) outdoor pool of the Tokyo Prince Hotel. … Read more
Feeling, as he said on a call, that “the word is kind of sick,” Lamine Badian Kouyaté—a man who has never been afraid to take a stand for what he believes in—staged his fall 2024 show in respectful silence. The show took place at Le Sentier, a neighborhood that was once the heart of the … Read more
A recent trip to Vietnam left such a strong impression on Chinese designer Shuting Qiu that she wanted to translate it into her new fall collection. In fact, for this season, Qiu took inspiration not only from the atmospheres and colors of that enchanting country, but also from Vietnamese artist Lê Phổ, a master of … Read more
A towering black obelisk—or maybe a half-flipped Asterix–loomed over us in the far, far, away Aubervillier TV soundstage to which Coperni had transported us as its late-night space. The obelisk (very Kubrick) lit up as John Williams’s The Conversation from Spielberg’s Close Encounters of The Third Kind played. “The collection is a whole sci-fi tribute,” … Read more
Copenhagen-based brothers Julius and Victor Juul of Heliot Emil remain committed to Paris while rethinking their brand’s relationship to the catwalk. For fall, they hosted a pop-up/exhibition in the capital in order to draw attention to their second collaboration with Alpinestars, an Italian company focused on motor sports and material innovation. This time around, the … Read more
Johanna Ortiz went out of her comfort zone for her fall presentation, trading the ambience of plush showrooms for the rarefied spaces of the Collège des Bernardins, a 13th century gothic building that was formerly a Cistercian college of the University of Paris. Further stepping up the game, she showed a broader collection than usual … Read more
Róisín Pierce’s way of speaking can take your breath away. “The name of the collection is ‘O Lovely One, Fallen From a Star,’” she said. “She’s essentially an angel who’s come to earth to bring peace, hope and love. I wanted to create something quite heavenly, with this numinous feeling. A feeling of protection.“ And … Read more
The mask is slowly slipping. Khoki—the anonymous collective of designers who have for the past couple of seasons been lighting up Tokyo with their idiosyncratic, happy-go-lucky approach to menswear—is slowly being pulled out of their self-made obscurity by the far-reaching arm of the fashion machine. The rules of the 2024 LVMH Prize dictated that semifinalist … Read more
