“It felt really right to do something fundamentally about love and strength,” said Phoebe English. “And the sort of sanctuary we can find when things are very dark and externally frightening.” In her last collection, the heart motif cropped up in the form of an almost-Victorian chocolate-boxy padded tie-on breastplate. This time, it multiplied all … Read more
Han Chong is always plotting something. In the short space of just three months, the designer has—deep breath—released a 35-look Resort collection; staged the most extravagant of his annual summer parties at the Roof Gardens in Kensington; opened a marble-and-steel flagship in the center of Bangkok; and welcomed Christopher Kane as Self-Portrait’s first designer-in-residence, (back … Read more
Daniel Fletcher has been busy living his life. That is why it’s been a minute since you’ve seen his label on the runway, and why this season he opted for a lookbook rather than a show. It’s also why he’s been playing around with his presentation schedule—that and the fact that he’s now repositioned his … Read more
There were no crowds forming outside the venue waiting for the occasional celebrity guest. No street style photographers. No influencers strutting up and down. No endless queue of black cars holding up traffic. Instead, it was a rainy Wednesday night, and I found myself walking into an office building on a quiet street in Milan. … Read more
Stepping into Dušan’s showroom, nestled in an elegant building on a quiet Milan street, feels like entering a preternaturally serene space, filled with museum-worthy ancient and Egyptian art treasures (he’s an eager collector) surrounded by an extraordinary installation of bonsai trees. Dušan Paunovic exists in a world of his own—he’s resistant to novelties, serves a … Read more
An elegantly slashed-sleeve cashmere sweater (that allows you to wear it arms in or out) worn with a hem-sashed skirt. An organic cotton trench with an added scallop of (removable) ruffles. A valentine-red dress with a soft asymmetric fall. All these soft touches indicated that BITE Studios was in a romantic mood for spring. As … Read more
“Made in Italy” is a broad umbrella concept under which innumerable smaller bottegas (workshops) sit—from tailors to textile makers, and specialists who work with leather, raffia, and other materials. It would seem, then, that differences of scale on the production end are a given, so why are so few piccolo-sized brands on or adjacent to … Read more
“It might not be much, but a window that opens onto the street is all I need,” said Arthur Arbesser. He’s always been obsessed with windows, watching life unfold through the glass when the lights turn on at night. The place where he presented his spring 2025 collection felt like a small white box, with … Read more
Filippo Grazioli went crafty, artsy and (why not?) a bit crazy for spring. He fully unleashed his inner eccentric on the runway, fearlessly and almost obsessively exploring Missoni’s zig-zag pattern with an avant-garde verve that felt instinctive and urgent. Backstage before the show, he explained that he wanted to re-energize Missoni’s bold artistic spirit and … Read more
The spring 1997 Versus show was Donatella Versace’s starting point for spring 2025. It was fashion’s pre-internet pre-history when elevated runways were still commonplace, as were the photographers who lined up against them. Can you imagine the clamoring today, if front-row content makers couldn’t get their iPhone shots? Versus was Donatella’s baby, a diffusion collection … Read more
