Elie Saab is in a 1970s state of mind. Like the styles of that time, his pre-fall collection covers a lot of territory. But he had one muse in mind overall: the inimitable Vogue editor Diana Vreeland. In her spirit, he titled the collection Perfectly Marvelous. The designer also took other of her admonishments to … Read more
Designers are as curious and cautious about AI as the rest of us. The new technology has been used at basic levels to create prints and to write at least one press release (Stine Goya). Last season Collina Strada and Heliot Emil dove deeper, experimenting with the tech as a design partner. Now Nehera’s Ladislav … Read more
For spring, Natasha Zinko transformed Soho Square, a de facto public park in the heart of central London, into a campsite adorned with tents of innumerable sizes. The Ukrainian designer’s pre-fall collection likewise has an outdoorsy theme, but with a cold-weather approach. “It’s a continuation of what we’ve done before, but everything’s a little bit … Read more
Like many designers this season, Naeem Khan was drawn to the idea of stripping things back and toying with minimalism. “I needed a palate cleanser—like a sorbet after an amazing appetizer,” says the Indian-American designer. But simplicity looks a little different for someone who’s known for his extravagant eveningwear and heavy embroidery work. Instead of … Read more
With his pre-fall collection, Zuhair Murad tuned into the music of the night. Picking up where his couture collection left off, the designer leaned into the concept of fly-by-night butterflies, lavishing saturated color and goth-tinged mystery on gossamer shapes for creatures that tend to rouse once the stars are out. One of the season’s new … Read more
It was 2020 the last time Georgina Chapman showed her Marchesa collection to the press. “We got comfortable during Covid,” she laughed, explaining the brand’s absence from the fashion cycle. Chapman wasn’t idle, however. She’s recently added Marchesa Rosa, a daywear collection with a bohemian spirit to her portfolio; it’s been designed to complement the … Read more
Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient are stepping into the new year, and their pre-fall season, with a resolution or two. “We’ve been creative and experimental for a long time, but with this collection what we wanted to achieve is like giving that big hug we all need right now,” Bösch offered during a joint video … Read more
Thom Browne will close New York Fashion Week with a fall 2024 show scheduled for 5 p.m. on February 14. The designer and CFDA Chairman was last on the runway in his hometown a year ago; in between then and now he presented a debut couture collection in Paris. Browne’s NYFW show—Little Prince-themed, but with … Read more
Then, at the Paris haute couture shows, Simone Rocha will become the sixth designer and only the second woman after Sacai’s Chitose Abe to guest design a Jean Paul Gaultier collection. How will the Irishwoman, known for the dreamy romance and eccentric embellishments of her clothes (lately she’s stuffed the lining of her dresses with … Read more
Editor’s Note: We continue our tradition of expanding the Vogue Runway archive by digitizing collections originally shot on film, focusing on shows from the past that speak to the preoccupations of today. Here, the spring 1997 lineup from Yohji Yamamoto, which examined the history of Western fashion, starting with Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. This spring 1997 … Read more
