Despite having only a debut collection under his belt, Tod’s creative director Matteo Tamburini seems pretty clearheaded about the direction he wants the label to go. “I’m a pragmatist,“ he said at a showroom appointment. He wants his designs to fit the purpose of an IRL wardrobe, and because Tod’s isn’t a brand for the … Read more
At Nili Lotan the blouse is back. “I haven’t been doing silk blouses, I’ve been making all of my tops as cotton button-downs,” laughed Lotan at a preview. She missed them, she said, and so did her customers. You could say the blouse’s resurgence was coming, based on the wild reception to Chloé’s Chemena Kamali’s … Read more
Sea’s resort collection started at the movies. What caught Monica Paolini’s fashion eye while watching the documentary Catching Fire: The Story of Anita Pallenberg were the costumes from another flick: 1970’s Performance. The jacket made from a green piano shawl that Mick Jagger sported as Turner particularly caught her eye. Sea offers one in black, … Read more
If it’s true that three makes a trend, there’s something afoot: Three French and Italian designers have been showing their fascination for the British Isles lately. First, Sabato De Sarno brought Gucci to London; secondly, Maria Grazia Chuiri took Dior to Scotland; and thirdly, Julien Dossena designed this Rabanne collection around his admiration for British … Read more
Inevitably, the crisis in retailing has been a subject of this resort season. How could it not be? Many designers are owed money, and if they aren’t they know someone who is. But if designers are uneasy, the thoughtful collections they’re producing don’t show it. I keep hearing versions of what Phillip Lim said during … Read more
Donatella Versace pivoted resort on a slender, tailored silhouette in a rich burgundy color—a rather unexpected choice considering the house’s codes. But Donatella likes to disrupt, and has a young audience on her mind hungry for newness. Men’s tailoring at Versace has a long history since the Gianni era; the famous 1995 Herb Ritts book … Read more
Hanako Maeda’s Adeam is inspired by her own upbringing; she was born in Tokyo but grew up in New York City, and her label fuses the fashion she wears in both cities. “My own life experience does have this kind of duality between the Eastern world and the Western world,” she said. For her resort … Read more
That Donatella Versace is young at heart isn’t a secret; her audacity has shone bright since her days working alongside her brother Gianni. She has always drawn upon the energy and insouciance of the young—qualities she embodies herself, so much so that in 1989 she was gifted by her brother with the creative direction of … Read more
Carolina Castiglioni launched Plan C men’s alongside women’s at this year’s Pitti Uomo. The artsy installation was conceived with longtime collaborator Duccio Maria Gambi, a designer and sculptor who has worked with Castiglioni on the set-up of the label’s stores in Tokyo. Japan is a big market for Plan C, as the country’s edgy aesthetic … Read more
This season, designer Christian Siriano enlisted a close friend to model his new collection—and that friend just so happened to be RuPaul’s Drag Race star Gottmik, who has been the fashion contender to beat on this current season of All Stars. (Gottmik made history when he became the first trans man to ever compete on … Read more
