“Easier” is the way Vestbø described the collection, but the de-and re-construction of long, narrow skirts looked complicated and sometimes stiff; effortlessness was to be found instead in sweaters through which scarves were pre-threaded, a polka-dot dress worn with thigh-high boots, and a draped minidress with rounds at the gathering point, which reference the cross … Read more
Consider the circle. A symbol of the divine. The beginning and the end. Infinity. Duckie Brown’s Steven Cox was thinking about the circle. “[This season] I thought, let’s simplify this: circle, square, T-shirt, jeans,” he explained at the Duckie Brown studio. He put a bolt of Japanese denim on the floor, unrolled it and drew … Read more
It was business as usual at Polo, where the design team was continuing its exploration of Ralph Lauren’s signature Americana. For spring it was injected with a slight nod to traveling and to exploration—whether to far-flung destinations or simply, the Cape. A short-sleeve dress with an asymmetrical draped hem in an indigo floral print, tie-dye … Read more
A go-to among minimalists since the brand was founded a decade ago, Gauchère this season stepped away from the runway, instead staging the spring collection in its airy Haussmannian showroom opposite the Louvre. It was a smart move, not least because the season’s inspiration was vibrations and electricity, or as designer Marie-Christine Statz put it, … Read more
For spring, JJ Martin elevated La DoubleJ’s presentation to a whole new level. She took over Milan’s Circolo Filologico, transforming it into what she described as a “high-vibration Fashion Week station and portal to higher consciousness,” offering editors, buyers, and the now globally expanded LDJ sisterhood a five-hour “energy bath” filled with sessions led by … Read more
Jenny Packham often draws on the glamour of the past to dress her glamorous woman in the present day. Yet her journeys across cultural and cinematic history typically locate themselves somewhere in the 20th century—and not in the annals of ancient Egypt. “I’ve been waiting for ages for the Grand Egyptian Museum to open in … Read more
Like Ernest Hemingway, Daiki Suzuki is a man of the world, and draws on his life experience to create his masterpieces. It was fitting, then, that the designer had taken the late American writer as his inspiration for this Engineered Garments collection, citing Hemingway as “one of our admired heroes.” Rooted in rugged military staples … Read more
It’s a good moment to be Daniel Roseberry. Fashion has decided to swap the bland sameness of quiet luxury and the banality of algorithms for a mood that’s more eccentric. And eccentric fashion is something Roseberry excels at, as he’s proven over and over again at his couture shows for Schiaparelli. Ready-to-wear is a newer … Read more
In sifting through the archives at Rochas, Alessandro Vigilante came across photos of founder Marcel Rochas enjoying downtime at the beach. In stark contrast to today, the house’s founder dressed like a dandy even in OOO mode. Vigilante has been at Rochas for a year now, and with this presentation—a beachside cabana complete with sand, … Read more
Theme-wise, Nehera’s spring collection flowed on from resort. Ladislav Zdút was focused on the Brutalist fountains that dot Bratislava’s cityscape. The concrete used to build them was represented in a custom shade of gray, used for a sheer organza pantsuit with its lining stripes revealed. The long tendrils of fountain water inspired long, narrow silhouettes: … Read more
