Micro-minis, slinky trouser suits, and flyaway caftans slit to the hip—what else could this be but the sexy-and-glamour legacy of Tom Ford? Peter Hawkings, Ford’s longtime menswear designer, now the brand’s creative director, is a Brit who knows every page of his former boss’s playbook, going back to the heady 1990s and aughts of the … Read more
“If we don’t hold a big runway show, we don’t need dozens of looks,” says Malaika Raiss as she walks through her collection, which was presented in a smaller setting this season. Its title, Interlude, can be taken literally: It’s a little breather to take a step back and reflect on the brand’s development before … Read more
Frederick Anderson inaugurated a new boutique and atelier in the NoMad neighborhood of Manhattan this spring. The space operates as both a store and Anderson’s working space, and represents an effort by the designer to strengthen his already tight bond with his customers, many of which he counts with as friends. This new proximity shaped … Read more
Gaurav Gupta was forced to cancel his fall couture show in Paris last month due to an urgent personal matter; this collection was presented in a private showroom and via a video on social media instead. It was an unfortunate circumstance for Gupta, who joined the Paris couture schedule in January of last year and … Read more
Margherita Missoni’s emerging brand has already launched with retailers including Nordstrom and Browns. Now it has a pop-up space of its own in Milan. Sited by coincidence directly opposite the door to the Prada offices, the little “Spazia Macca” showcases the brand’s latest collections as well as a selection of Missoni-curated vintage accessories against which … Read more
“The modern woman is ready for the return of sexy. No more of that quiet luxury,” said Han Chong at a resort 2025 appointment. The designer, who built up Self-Portrait with fun, colorful, Instagrammable pieces, decided to diversify this resort offering with a bit more edge and grunge than the usual. Replacing the cutesy pastel … Read more
“It is not a nostalgic or particular prism of a woman,” said Louise Trotter, when asked how the heritage of Carven informs her approach. “It’s that sense of silhouette and sense of proportion with an ease of today.” Trotter has shown two runway collections since arriving at Carven. But by the quirk of pre-collection timing, … Read more
The storytelling was on point in Abarna Kugathasan’s second show for her label Kitschy Couture. Last February, she showed off her extravagant pieces (mainly dresses at the time) in a magnificent Tamil wedding ceremony in which the bride married herself. “Now this season is a honeymoon collection—after marrying herself, the bride is going on a … Read more
So, uh, truth be told, I didn’t see the show for this Haderlump collection. But I saw the collection the following day, and chatted with the label’s creative director Johann Ehrhardt at the showroom for Berlin’s younger labels at the Chateau Royal hotel, more of which later. Here’s what happened. While my fellow showgoers at … Read more
Jörg Ehrlich and Otto Drögsler of Odeeh share a mindset more open than almost any other designers in Berlin. They do not follow trends, nor do they exclude the possibility of new ideas. Creative compromises and differing opinions yield positive results here, both behind the scenes and on the catwalk. Always in focus: the Odeeh … Read more
