At Area’s tenth anniversary show this morning, you could hear the models’ Cuban-heeled boots stomping on the runway before you saw the first look: a navy suit with a wide shouldered jacket, accessorized with a matching officer’s cap worn low on the face, obscuring the eyes but not the attitude. “It’s been 10 years of … Read more
The winds of change are blowing at Derek Lam 10 Crosby. If that line sounds familiar, it’s because just over a year ago, last summer, this very writer used it to open the label’s resort 2024 review. Back then, designer Kate Wallace had just been brought onto the label to give it a revamp. That’s … Read more
Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia have been stealthily revamping their label over the last few seasons. They first moved their lookbook release timeline to a see-now, buy-now schedule last year, then launched a line of handbags and footwear, and are now refining their storytelling and thinking more expansively about how they present their collections visually. The … Read more
Aaron Potts returned to the New York Men’s Day showcase this morning after a season away. “Men’s Day to me is like a family reunion,” he said. “We all come here to get together and do our thing, and we know what we’re doing.” Potts had two ideas in mind for spring: The color blue—its … Read more
“Something to look forward to” was the season’s motto for Michelle Ochs at Hervé Léger. The designer is celebrating a milestone birthday this year with her first big trip in some time, she said, which put her in a wanderlust state of mind as she approached her spring lineup. The idea here was to imbue … Read more
Ralph Lauren, at 84, does nothing by half measures. For his spring 2025 show, he invited guests out to a 19-acre horse farm in Bridgehampton, an afternoon’s journey from New York City, parked his vintage cars near the stables, including a 1970s red Ferrari with Colorado plates, and had show horses jumping in a training … Read more
Samuel Ross is back in the fashion game. His intention is to rewrite its rules. But first here’s the recap. It’s just over six months since Ross announced the outright sale of his first brand, A-Cold-Wall, to his longtime partner and incubator Tomorrow Ltd. As Virgil Abloh’s first-ever intern, this laser-focused young Brit had during … Read more
After looking to the 1960s in their recent resort collection, Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard hoped to bottle something a little more ephemeral for spring 2025: the It-Girl. “You can always envision that girl,” Swanson Beard says. “It’s all about her je ne sais quoi, her style, and how she puts things together. … Read more
“Men who appreciate Etro are collectors at heart; they enjoy amassing [the label’s] prints over the years, almost obsessively, and aren’t concerned with fleeting trends,” said Marco De Vincenzo. And so this season he decided to forgo the catwalk and present an edited lineup of just 15 looks that highlights the brand’s archival patterns, all … Read more
Camille Miceli doesn’t lack joie de vivre, and her ebullient personality naturally aligns with the mood-boosting pop colors and prints of Emilio Pucci. Ranging from high summer holiday options to more urban occasions, the fall collection is called Pucci Parade. Alternating between explosive colorways and all-over black iterations, Miceli wanted a pause from the excess … Read more
