With her resort 2025 collection, Sarah Staudinger has fine-tuned the balance between her minimal and quirky tendencies. The designer, who was once known for bold prints, all-over beaded pieces, and colorful bags, has recently been exploring a quieter, more understated approach full of muted neutrals and soft pastels. Now, it seems the fun is slowly … Read more
Huishan Zhang loves a glamorous muse almost as much as he loves a good story. In Song Huai-Kuei—the late Chinese artist and socialite who was better known as Madame Song, a pivotal figure who introduced Pierre Cardin to China and brought European designers into the wardrobes of Chinese women when such a thing was unheard … Read more
Alessandro Dell’Acqua went for a full-on celebration of dichotomy for resort. He has always touched on contrasts; playing the bourgeois against the rebellious, the proper opposing the louche, and the bon ton tinged with the slightly trashy has been a consistent knack of his throughout his career. This makes sense if you think of his … Read more
“The vibe is a little bit business—I’m really trying to be very practical.” Batsheva Hay wasted no time getting to the point of her resort collection. We were looking at a handsome, heavy black denim skirt suit that was typical Batsheva: a vintage-inspired batwing jacket with four small buttons and a tie at the waist, … Read more
Evolving within self-set limits is the name of the game at BITE Studios. The new resort collection shows that headway is being made on the materials front. Co-founder William Lundgren reported that 99% of the textiles used for this collection are organic or certified, thus living up to the promise of the brand name, BITE … Read more
As always, Bibhu Mohapatra has a theme and muses—Françoise Hardy and Georgia O’Keeffe meet in a garden, this season—but they are mostly beside the point. Silhouette, textiles, and craftsmanship are the real story here. Let’s start with embroidery; of note is a relatively restrained exploded grid pattern of abstract florals with an Art Deco feeling … Read more
Amid the upheaval in Paris these days is a quiet gathering of speed at the oldest continuously operating couture house in the world. Today, Lanvin will unveil its latest store, inside the bustling Galeries Lafayette flagship here. The move, which brings the house its third boutique in the French capital, follows last month’s opening of … Read more
The Elder Statesman founder Greg Chait and its creative director Bailey Hunter like to come up with elaborate concepts for their collections—and their lookbooks—that match the level of creative exploration and expression that they’ve come to be known for. This season, it was the classic All-American catalogs that rose to prominence in the 1980s and … Read more
The first look in Brandon Maxwell’s resort collection is a black pantsuit, streamlined and sleek in his familiar fashion, save for the details. The jacket’s brass buttons were hand-hammered by Maxwell himself for a ripply three-dimensional texture and the brass belt buckle was hand-poured. No two buttons or belt buckles will be the same. His … Read more
Andrea Lieberman continues to design with her most loyal customer in mind: herself. Although she maintains that she designs for multiple generations (she has a teenage daughter, who helped her expand her perspective), she acknowledges that her DNA is woven into her clothing. “I think the customer we design for some of the time is … Read more
