A visit to Giambattista Valli’s airy, bright, and very elegant showroom, just near the Opéra Garnier, is never just about fashion, even if there is a mind-boggling array of covetable clothing, shoes, and bags. It’s about stepping into a lifestyle. The way the designer sees it, making clothes is about sharing a very specific dream … Read more
Serenity and excitement coexist in By Malene Birger’s resort collection. Somehow Maja Dixdotter found a way to maintain a sense of equilibrium while enlivening things with shots of ruby red and running wild with toned down animal patterns. A leopard-printed pony hair coat and hero piece has roar factor, but the other looks mostly purr. … Read more
Some 20-odd years ago, Roland Mouret founded his label on the idea of intimacy, what women really wanted, and how he could make it for them, which often involved cutting, draping, and folding his clothes directly onto the body. That’s still, all this time later, what drives his work. Maybe even more so these days, … Read more
With its classic palette (black, white, red, and beige) and the honesty of the fabrics (cotton, wool, denim, leather, and suede) it serves up a very current mix of creativity, functionality, and relevancy. Oh, and let’s throw in desirability here too, because he has also delivered that in spades. “I really need to work [the … Read more
For Maggie Marilyn’s Maggie Hewitt, the last few years have been about resets and new beginnings. She’s in the middle of the changes begun during Covid, and she recently gave birth to her first child. “The first years of Maggie Marilyn we had such rapid growth; Net-a-Porter was one of our first stockists, we got … Read more
Elie Saab’s resort collection lands amid a whirlwind: Last month, the designer unveiled a 26-look capsule of see-now-buy-now collaboration with the Istanbul-based retailer Ipekyol. He’s also moving ahead with a first branded residential tower in Abu Dhabi, putting the final touches on a couture collection for Paris, and preparing an “Elie’s World” extravaganza to be … Read more
Rosie Assoulin is finding the balance in contradictions. Drapery and rigidity, khaki mixed with floral jacquards, and serious suiting in playful patterns all comprise Assoulin’s resort 2025 offering. “It’s light and unserious, but with real construction, and subtle fabrics,” she said. “[We are] trying to still appeal to our luxury tastes, but with a more … Read more
Just a few days before Greta Constantine designer Kirk Pickersgill debuted his new resort collection, the designer attended a gala for the National Ballet of Canada in Toronto—and was struck by just how many women he spotted in his evening gowns. “It was a huge compliment,” he said. The fact that his designs were thriving … Read more
Ah, the archives! For any designer appointed at a brand with a past and cachet, they’re places of wonder to mine. At Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis’s access to the label’s trove of past collections has helped him establish a minimalistic aesthetic, underpinned by classicism and infused with a certain sensuality that “feels very Italian,” he said … Read more
Alberta Ferretti works a lot, but also “lives a lot,” as she said at a resort appointment. “If you don’t live, you don’t know what women want.” In a fashion system where creative directors are mostly male, Ferretti has carved her own path through decades of dedication to an idea of romantic pragmatism. “I am … Read more
