Since his spring 2024 ready-to-wear show, Jun Takahashi has imbued a refreshing sense of lightness into his womenswear. There’s been sheer layering, billowing volumes, unlined tailoring, and outfits flattened into roomy dresses. It’s as if Takahashi has been purging his line of the superfluous, but without doing away with his delicate magpie eye for ornamentation. … Read more
Nanushka creative director Sandra Sándor’s take on resort didn’t dilute her codes, it reinforced them. Following a fall collection derived from her own core memories, the Hungarian designer used nostalgia as her primary form of inspiration. Budapest, the place where she was born and raised, again served as a foundation, but this time she focussed … Read more
Donatella Versace pivoted resort on a slender, tailored silhouette in a rich burgundy color—a rather unexpected choice considering the house’s codes. But Donatella likes to disrupt, and has a young audience on her mind hungry for newness. Men’s tailoring at Versace has a long history since the Gianni era; the famous 1995 Herb Ritts book … Read more
This Dior Men resort is a sort of amuse-bouche for what’s to be served later this month at Kim Jones’s spring 2025 show in Paris. But rather than see it as an aesthetic preamble—Jones was not made available to explain the lineup or tease what he’s got in the oven for June 21—look at these … Read more
This season the Big Dog at Louis Vuitton menswear turned the maison into a niche à chien. Alongside a barking selection of LVers-branded dog accessories—among them, a bowl, harness, poop-bag holder, collar, and a magnificently OTT Louis Vuitton dog house—Pharrell Williams and his studio unleashed a pedigree collection of menswear and human accessories too. This … Read more
Legacy brands have been diving into the archives of late, looking for familiar archetypes in need of a contemporary refresh. At MM6 Maison Margiela, the pre-spring 2025 collection is built on clothes that somehow work “with and counter to the notion of generic foundational pieces,” according to the notes. In the studio, the catchphrase is … Read more
Dean and Dan Caten went pragmatic for resort, trading their riotous mashups for “something more straightforward.” Minimalism will never be their darling, yet resort was probably the closest they’ve come so far to a pared-down look. “Where am I going, what do I need?” was the question framing the Catens’ mindset, a preoccupation somehow reflective … Read more
Robert Geller had his coming out as Rag & Bone’s Head of Menswear at the brand’s resort 2025 appointments. The German-born designer, who was a CFDA/Vogue finalist in 2010 and the CFDA’s emerging menswear designer winner in 2011, moved to Portugal after the closing of his namesake brand in 2019. “There weren’t a lot of … Read more
