With his pre-fall collection, Zuhair Murad tuned into the music of the night. Picking up where his couture collection left off, the designer leaned into the concept of fly-by-night butterflies, lavishing saturated color and goth-tinged mystery on gossamer shapes for creatures that tend to rouse once the stars are out. One of the season’s new … Read more
It was 2020 the last time Georgina Chapman showed her Marchesa collection to the press. “We got comfortable during Covid,” she laughed, explaining the brand’s absence from the fashion cycle. Chapman wasn’t idle, however. She’s recently added Marchesa Rosa, a daywear collection with a bohemian spirit to her portfolio; it’s been designed to complement the … Read more
Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient are stepping into the new year, and their pre-fall season, with a resolution or two. “We’ve been creative and experimental for a long time, but with this collection what we wanted to achieve is like giving that big hug we all need right now,” Bösch offered during a joint video … Read more
Thom Browne will close New York Fashion Week with a fall 2024 show scheduled for 5 p.m. on February 14. The designer and CFDA Chairman was last on the runway in his hometown a year ago; in between then and now he presented a debut couture collection in Paris. Browne’s NYFW show—Little Prince-themed, but with … Read more
Naked dressing reached new extremes in the summer of 2023. Here in New York, at least, it wasn’t unusual to see young women stepping out in boxer shorts and tanks, and in many cases bra tops were replaced by bras, plain and simple. Anticipating another hot one in 2024, Rachel Comey has put together a … Read more
Daniel Del Core worked on reduction for pre-fall. Picking up the vibe of his spring show, there was a certain clarity in silhouettes and concision in his approach to construction here. But being keen on the adventurous, he experimented on unusual shapes, trying to regenerate predictable templates. “My imagination works as a laboratory,” he said. … Read more
Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding have been leveraging their creative talents in recent seasons, placing introspection at the heart of their process. Their pre-fall collection wholeheartedly embraces this approach, focusing primarily on daywear. “It’s an exploration into the signatures of our past, but it’s also about discovering new ways of adapting details from what we’ve … Read more
There are some broad and generally accepted parallels between decades in fashion history, such as the ’20s and ’60s and the ’40s and ’80s. It’s the latter pairing that is operative—without being retrograde—in Andrea Mary Marshall’s Salon 1884 pre-fall collection. “I wanted to make sure that [the wearer] looked empowered in the clothing and that … Read more
Alfred Hitchcock once called Grace Kelly “a snow-covered volcano.” The blonde actress-turned-princess famously embodied the hot Ice Queen cliché, classy on the outside, lustful on the inside—a duality that some consider erotic. Alessandra Rich finds it “an attractive paradox,” and for pre-fall she flirted with the duplicity between proper and naughty, a recurring theme in … Read more
Lightness isn’t a quality usually associated with Victoriana (all those tufted sofas and crinolines), but the two come together harmoniously in Sea’s easy-to-wear pre-fall collection, which is full of cross-season dressing tips. These included pairing an openwork dress with a linen blazer cinched with a black leather waist bag, and creating interesting texture play by … Read more
