As he always approached his own designs in the past, Arthur Arbesser’s new collection spoke of personal encounters. The designer dedicated his fall outing to an 86-year-old woman he used to be fascinated with as a child. Arbesser enthusiastically recalled rigorously observing Ms. Kaesser outside the windows of her silverware, glasses and custom jewelry shop. … Read more
Organizing and executing a fashion show poses an expensive challenge for independent designers striving to make ends meet. This reality became apparent during London Fashion Week, where brands like Chopova Lowena, Supriya Lele, and Talia Byre chose to forgo the runway this season to navigate their financial constraints. Even seasoned designer Matty Bovan shifted to … Read more
Over the last couple of weeks Sabato De Sarno’s debut Gucci collection has started shipping to stores and making its way out into the world. During a meeting at the brand’s headquarters earlier this week he reported seeing a woman at a gallery wearing the lime green coat embellished with crystal fringes from last season, … Read more
Supriya Lele is one of those designers who’ve got into the rhythm of showing one season, and doing a lookbook next. Last time, she sent out something of a spectacular at the Barbican—a bold underlining of the delineation of her brief, draped sexy co-ordinates which succeed in blurring the distinctions between clothes, swimwear and lingerie. … Read more
Nomads looking for economic opportunities in the age of artificial intelligence. For fall, Stella Jean took that idea as a chance for reflection while working with women from Mali’s desert. Just as people travel across a land, so does their creativity. At her showroom, Jean referred to “putting fibers at the center of cooperation, made … Read more
In recent seasons, Han Chong, founder of Self-Portrait, has shifted towards a more pared-back interpretation of the brand’s trademark high-octane glamour. Recognizing the multifaceted lifestyles of his discerning clientele, even those in the upper echelons of society, he acknowledges their desire for comfort and versatility by seamlessly transitioning from day to evening. The fall collection … Read more
The entire Beccaria-Bonaccorsi family greeted guests at the fall presentation held at Officine LùBar, a vast creative hub that is part of their growing hospitality business. Already comprising a successful café and a restaurant launched by Ludovico, one of the five Beccaria siblings, it’s set to be further expanded in the future. Entrepreneurial spirit is … Read more
La JJ Martin is in love with everything Florentine—this apparently includes a very special guy, but we can only guess, so we’ll live it at that. Florence was the cradle of the Italian Renaissance, a term that translates into ‘rebirth,’ an esoteric meaning that obviously isn’t lost on Martin, whose creativity (and knack for business) … Read more
In the dark before the Tom Ford show began, the end titles music from Basic Instinct played on repeat (at least that’s what Shazam told me). Sharon Stone herself was in the front row, joined by Uma Thurman, Eva Green, Sam Claflin, Dominic Sessa, and Callum Turner. The paparazzi couldn’t seem to get enough of … Read more
Adrian Appiolaza was named creative director of Moschino three weeks and two days ago. His arrival is tinged with sadness. Davide Renne, his predecessor in the role, died suddenly not long after beginning the job. It’s delicate, taking over in a situation like this; Appiolaza did so by committing himself to Franco Moschino’s legacy. “It’s … Read more
