What a shame. As the small-font list of names on the credit sheet attested, a lot of people worked hard to get this afternoon’s planned Anrealage show ready to go. But in a twist that could almost have been scripted (by an especially sadistic writer), the always futuristic plans of Kunihiko Morinaga were today undone … Read more
The Ester Manas digital invitation was printed with a bouquet of flowers bearing a note, “missed you,” and a red lipstick kiss. Founders Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre haven’t shown on the runway since February 2023 despite winning the Andam Special Prize, worth €100,000, in May. The idea behind the break, they explained backstage, was … Read more
The validity of the runway format is a topic of much discussion this season as business tightens in the face of global uncertainties. After heralding the rebranding of Simkhai with a fall 2023 show in New York, the designer has temporarily stepped away from the catwalk. “It’s a really fun process and I really enjoy … Read more
The House of Dagmar is having its day as the business expands rapidly in the U. S. Yet it was the illuminator of the night sky, the moon, that Sofia Wallenstam had in sight while creating the fall collection, which was, more generally, about shape. “We really worked from the circle,” said Wallenstam on a … Read more
The young Belgian designer Marie Adam-Leenaerdt is working her way through the building blocks of a woman’s wardrobe. Her season-one collection was devoted to “office wear” and her second to “holiday clothes.” The show she put on today was devoted to the skirt. If a quick glance at these photos suggests otherwise, that’s because Adam-Leenaerdt … Read more
Amidst the milling crowd popping canapes around Loro Piana’s static and featureless mannequins, this presentation contained a jewel. Two gloved custodians stood by a table on which rested this fabric-founded house’s first-ever sample book, from the spring/summer 1926 season. A double breasted suit in the atrium of Loro Piana’s presentation space (just next to the … Read more
Norbert Stumpfl held Brioni’s first-ever exclusively womenswear presentation at the 1945-founded house’s Milan showroom, just one door down from that of its Kering cousin Balenciaga. Unlike traditional Italo-luxe heritage peers such as Loro Piana or Zegna, Brioni’s origins are rooted in tailoring and construction rather than fabrics and materials. And unlike its raucously rebellious Parisian … Read more
In this “winter of our discontent” many designers are pulling back from fantasy in favor of the pragmatic. Antonio Tarabini isn’t one of them. After designing for others for decades, during the pandemic he went solo, working with jersey to create non-gendered pieces that are modern in their body consciousness and also have a connection … Read more
In the 20 years since Marchesa was founded by two Brits abroad, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig (the latter has since exited), the company has become an if-you-can-make-it-here New York success story with multiple lines (Notte, Rosa, bridal), which iterate on the themes of the main Marchesa offering. For fall the theme was nominally Shakespearean. … Read more
Serbian-born DuÅ¡an Paunovic is one of fashionâs best kept secrets, a rare under-the-radar bird that has so far shied away from publicity on social media and elsewhere, is indifferent to catwalks, hates logos, and has been discreetly sending out his eponymous collections for 25 years from a studio in Milan located in a chic modernist … Read more
