High glamour was the order of the day for Jenny Packham’s fall collection, which neatly picked up where her pre-fall left off: reveling in the glitter and hedonism of the 1970s. “I was thinking about David Bowie last time, which led me on to Starman and it all got a bit cosmic,” she said. Aside … Read more
Between the sound of a woman’s breathing, a white, tensile installation that responded, swelled, rose and fell with it, and the slits of the low center-front pockets which every model had one hand tucked into—well! Nicholas di Felice was so clearly talking about the pleasures of sex and fashion at his Courrèges show that his … Read more
Rochas is gunning for a comeback under the creative direction of Alessandro Vigilante. There’s a lot of work to do here—after all, Rochas is best known for fragrances these days—so logically enough the designer started back at square one, draping a salon in the Hôtel d’Évreux in hibiscus pink and rustling up some Marcel Rochas … Read more
Charaf Tajer, founder and creative director of Casablanca, explained backstage that this collection told the story of ancient Greece and “the bridge between them and us—how they influence us in architecture, philosophy, mathematics, psychedelics…” Hold on a sec… You, like me, may have had no clue that the ancient city of Eleusis near Athens was … Read more
How Tracy Reese chose to introduce her Hope for Flowers fall 2024 collection—at a trade show and not with a splashy runway production—mirrored the nature of her most recent designs: relaxed, pragmatic, and made to resonate more so with her customer than with an editorial eye. “Runway shows were so much fun,” she says. “We … Read more
This season, Yasuko Furuta gave it the razzle-dazzle—a quick skim through a rail of her clothes revealed some show-stopping sequins, frills, and shine. As is custom, though, the Toga designer’s commentary on her exuberant fall collection was short and sweet: she mentioned states of dress and undress, as well as the spirit of the 19th-century … Read more
Peter Do named his new collection Áo Dài and dedicated it to his late grandmother. An áo dài is a traditional Vietnamese uniform consisting of a long straight-cut tunic worn over a pair of matching elastic waist pants, usually in silk; it’s an outfit he remembers her wearing when he was a young child. At … Read more
At Armarium the concept of care is a fusion of aesthetics and functionality. It can be seen in the attention to crucial details when observing the garments up close. To enter designer Giorgia Gabriele’s world, it is necessary to get closer. Armarium is born from what she wants in her own wardrobe. “Tailoring has always … Read more
He delivered a taut, impeccably controlled silhouette which stretched across and around the body hither and thither, in the shape of bow-neck blouses, pencil skirts, and draped dresses to just below the knee, the shapes the very definition of propriety even if the sheerness wasn’t. All of this came in a beautiful palette that ranged … Read more
This September will mark 20 years since Andreas Melbostad’s New York Fashion Week debut as the creative director of Phi, a line backed by Susan Dell. Just under two years ago, the Norwegian designer—who has an impressive résumé that includes stints working at Calvin Klein and DKNY, with Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, and as the … Read more
