With awards season in full swing, it’s only natural that Roland Mouret should find himself leaning hard into glamour. Few designers, after all, know how to deliver a red-carpet moment with the same combination of dazzle and savoir faire as Mouret, evidenced by stars like Carey Mulligan and Olivia Colman wearing gowns of his at … Read more
Alessandra Rich riffed on the naughty ingénue repertoire she favors for her fall presentation; to make the message coming across, the label’s Art Deco showroom was set up as a boudoir. In one of the rooms of the sprawling marble-lined space, a decadent four-poster bed was bedecked with white lace curtains and a red velvet … Read more
Harris Reed noted how he’s been working up to this collection. “I think I can confidently say, hate or love it, this is the Nina woman for me in 2024,” he said. “She is this fierce French woman from an outside perspective, but that’s what makes it me and makes it hopefully special.” There’s been … Read more
Anna Teurnell is in top form. The Swedish designer—who has just been named creative director of Filippa K—landed a resounding one-two punch with knock-out pre-fall and fall collections for her namesake label (which she will continue to lead). Launched just three years ago, Teurn Studios is a sleeper brand that should be better known; especially … Read more
Meryll Rogge staged a fashion show in a locker-lined basement of the École Duperré, where she also hosted an after party to mark four years in business. “It’s really difficult for young brands today, and the fact that we’re still here is a great thing for all of us, so we wanted to celebrate,” said … Read more
Paris has been chattering all week about the empty creative-director seat at Givenchy, tossing out names and wondering about timelines. The studio team was responsible for this collection. Givenchy has been through so many hands in the past decade—Riccardo Tisci, Clare Waight Keller, Matthew M. Williams—that the audience has lost its handle on what Hubert … Read more
Politics. Wars. Brexit. Economics. Family stuff. Non-paying retailers. Last time we chatted, Ashish Gupta was gripped by a glumness sparked by circumstance. So for the new season this usually sunny soul decided to regroup. He decided to pay fresh attention to London, seek fresh stimulation in a new category (knitwear), and to lean on some … Read more
Nehera’s fall collection, which bookended the one preceding it, represented a progression from ominous thunder clouds straight into the eye of the squall. Ladislav Zdút identified the two sources stirring up this tempest as the AI revolution and the current state of global politics. Bratislava, where Nehera is based, is about 600 miles from Kyiv. … Read more
We were back at Rick Owens’s Place du Palais Bourbon manse today. As he did during the January men’s season, Owens traded the bombast (his word) of his Palais de Tokyo shows for a setup more intime. Owens’s singular, sweeping vision remains plenty big enough for the monumental Palais. Batwing shoulders scraped the earlobes, puffer … Read more
Meet Steve O Smith, who’s just arrived fully-fledged from London with his startlingly beautiful debut collection. As you may guess when you scroll through his lookbook, Smith started in fine art, and is now transferring his expressive drawings into making clothes. “I think these are both drawings,” he said, holding a sketch in one hand, … Read more
