“I feel every day when I’m in the garment district it’s a battle, so I wanted to do something that was a little bit autobiographical, and I didn’t want to do a full take on military,” explained Andrea Mary Marshall of her tightly edited, body conscious collection. It so happens that in telling her own … Read more
Prabal Gurung, a Bill Blass alum, knows from swans because they used to flock to that house back in the day. He’s just as clued into what his own customers want and need—and it’s not sweatpants. “We’ve always had a small private client business,” the designer explained on a studio visit. (Taika Waititi and Rita … Read more
Feeling, as he said on a call, that “the word is kind of sick,” Lamine Badian Kouyaté—a man who has never been afraid to take a stand for what he believes in—staged his fall 2024 show in respectful silence. The show took place at Le Sentier, a neighborhood that was once the heart of the … Read more
A recent trip to Vietnam left such a strong impression on Chinese designer Shuting Qiu that she wanted to translate it into her new fall collection. In fact, for this season, Qiu took inspiration not only from the atmospheres and colors of that enchanting country, but also from Vietnamese artist Lê Phổ, a master of … Read more
A towering black obelisk—or maybe a half-flipped Asterix–loomed over us in the far, far, away Aubervillier TV soundstage to which Coperni had transported us as its late-night space. The obelisk (very Kubrick) lit up as John Williams’s The Conversation from Spielberg’s Close Encounters of The Third Kind played. “The collection is a whole sci-fi tribute,” … Read more
Copenhagen-based brothers Julius and Victor Juul of Heliot Emil remain committed to Paris while rethinking their brand’s relationship to the catwalk. For fall, they hosted a pop-up/exhibition in the capital in order to draw attention to their second collaboration with Alpinestars, an Italian company focused on motor sports and material innovation. This time around, the … Read more
Johanna Ortiz went out of her comfort zone for her fall presentation, trading the ambience of plush showrooms for the rarefied spaces of the Collège des Bernardins, a 13th century gothic building that was formerly a Cistercian college of the University of Paris. Further stepping up the game, she showed a broader collection than usual … Read more
Róisín Pierce’s way of speaking can take your breath away. “The name of the collection is ‘O Lovely One, Fallen From a Star,’” she said. “She’s essentially an angel who’s come to earth to bring peace, hope and love. I wanted to create something quite heavenly, with this numinous feeling. A feeling of protection.“ And … Read more
For fall, Nanushka’s Sandra Sándor went back to memory lane to her teenage years growing up in Hungary. Before the fall of the Iron Curtain in 1989, crossing borders was forbidden; fashion was anathema. Sándor and her family traveled extensively within the country, so her sense of fashion was initially shaped by the utilitarian folklore … Read more
“I love roses because they can mean so many things: romance, mystery, sexiness… there’s a lot of subtext there,” Zuhair Murad offered during a showroom preview for fall. With its rich, somber palette, lush fabrics and intricate embroideries, the lineup unfolded like a sort of fantasy stroll through a secret garden by night. The designer … Read more
