Soulland, which pulled back from shows a few seasons ago, presented a fairly formulaic fall collection by appointment. Silhouettes stayed mostly static, while textiles (note the neon tapestry floral) and prints changed. There’s a wonderful “logo” print made from a pencil drawing by Silas Adler’s son, where the S in the brand name is turned … Read more
“Well, it only took 10 years!” exclaimed Karl Lindman backstage at Toteme with his wife and cofounder Elin Kling by his side. Over the past decade, the brand has grown mightily in cachet, clientele, and commercial success without ever staging a proper fashion show. Lindman noted that they are perfectionists, hence one reason for holding … Read more
As fashion has embraced a pared-down, how does a label unabashedly partial to bold figurative imagery adjust? Francesca Ruffini’s attitude is one of smart flexibility, trying to navigate today’s change of mood without losing her distinctive style. “I’ve always tried to make my voice rise above the noise of trends,” she said. This season she … Read more
A lot has changed for CDLM’s Chris Peters in the last year. For one, he’s joined the Puppets and Puppets team (the spring 2024 collection was the first one he worked on alongside Carly Mark), but even more importantly, he’s begun a meditation practice. “I never really understood what meditation did, but it’s given me … Read more
Eytys’s spring 2023 Eurotrash T-shirt got a lot of mileage last year. A sort of wearable meme, it tapped into the same vein of kitschy, tabloid glamour that Balenciaga mined for its show in LA. For its fall 2024 collection, Max Schiller, Eytys’s millennial creative director, looked back to the late ’80s and early ’90s—fashion’s … Read more
Thinking about legacy is second nature to Bryan Conway, who worked with Christopher Bailey at Burberry. Since joining Tiger of Sweden, Conway’s mission has been to define what a Swedish heritage brand is, and he’s been looking for answers—and materials—from the source. He’s been inspired by the architecture in Stockholm, photographed Swedish tourists in Mallorca … Read more
Carolina Castiglioni has a passion for contemporary art nurtured by her cultivated upbringing; her mother being Marni’s founder Consuelo Castiglioni, Carolina certainly has a trained eye. Her Milanese flat is filled with a carefully edited selection of best-in-class vintage furniture from the 1950 and ’60s, together with pieces from upcoming artists. No wonder her Plan … Read more
Cooking is a new-ish passion for Our Legacy’s Christopher Nying, who grew up in a home where food was an expression of love. He spread the amore this season by taking over a restaurant in Milan and preparing a meal for a gathering of friends and colleagues. His fall collection, called Feast, was similarly hospitable. … Read more
For fall 2024, Emily Adams Bode Aujla is introducing a new line with a sportswear bend called Bode Recreation. “It’s our interpretation of American athletic wear, largely inspired from the 1770s through the 1970s, and it’s the first time that we’re introducing certain materials more focused on washability and wearability,” she said at the label’s … Read more
Dean and Dan Caten’s show was about—surprise!—the idea of twins. Who better than the irrepressible Canadian brothers should have a say in the representation of “the two sides of the coin,” as they said backstage? Drawing upon their own reality of being a sort of day-and-night double version of each other offered the Catens the … Read more
