“I don’t want to say it but it’s more…commercial?” said Tanner Richie at a preview of his and his partner Fletcher Kassel’s fall 2024 collection. The word commercial should not be taboo, but it does carry a certain connotation among the fashion cognoscenti. Commercial often equates to boring and uninspired, overly merchandised, and even monotonous, … Read more
“For the Love of Money” by The O’Jays served as the theme song for The Apprentice. By way, in part, of the reality show, the song became emblematic of not just Wall Street but a culture obsessed with finances. Money: Who has more of it, who has none of it, where to find it. LaQuan … Read more
Tory Burch’s first store opened 20 years ago last week; it marked the start of her brand. A spate of profiles timed to the milestone have appeared across the media. In the interview she gave this publication, she said, “I think I’m more apt to explore my vulnerability now than I ever was before—vulnerability from … Read more
There was no show at Theory this season, but the vibe at the brand’s Meatpacking District showroom remained as sunny as ever. The big news for fall was leopard print. It was great as a youthquake-y miniskirt (paired with a simple cardigan with gently shaped sleeves) and as an oversized A-line shirt dress. New shapes … Read more
For Hanako Maeda, opposites attract. “I feel like throughout this collection you see this dichotomy between something that feels more romantic versus something that feels more minimal, between fabrics that are constructed and fabrics that are soft,” the creative director of New York and Tokyo based Adeam said from her studio in Ginza. A knit … Read more
It felt significant that Puppets and Puppets’s Carly Mark was showing her last ready-to-wear collection, for now, in a skyscraper in Midtown as the designer—a downtown darling who has the ability to channel Edie Sedgwick and Party Girl’s Mary—has decided to put the brakes on clothing and focus her energy on accessories. As such, she … Read more
Quite recently, Henry Zankov, the talented designer of all things knit-y and sweater-y of the label Zankov, saw the Sophie Calle exhibition at the Musée Picasso in Paris. A quote on the wall caught his eye. “It’s really beautiful,” he said the other week at a preview of his fall 2024 collection at his live … Read more
“I’ve been so interested in how many brands are taking a more realistic perspective in making clothes for real people,” said Tanya Taylor on a walk-through of her fall collection. That approach is something that’s always appealed to her, and does so even more now that she has her own boutique and can track what … Read more
At Tibi, Amy Smilovic was thinking about the ’90s. Not in the way fashion is always thinking about the ’90s, but in the way that the ’90s represent a certain kind of freedom. “We were looking at photos from the time; but not at the clothes, but the people and the models and how they … Read more
However tenuous, this link between GWTW and the Greed Decade resonates with the mood on the runways, just as Scarlett’s coquettishness vibes with TikTok trends like bows, and with the O’Hara/antebellum aesthetic of corseted, crinolined, and tiered looks Velez created for the ball. There were more plain-spun looks as well that might have been pulled … Read more
