Berluti’s attractive Sky Running trail-style sneaker—with specially produced Vibram sole, amplified stitched leather mudguards, and mixed suede leather and mesh uppers, all in multiple tonal colorways—was just one shoe amongst many at this Berluti presentation. However it was the only all-new sneaker. And with the house soonish due to outfit the 800 plus French athletes … Read more
For the record, Who Decides War is making a return to Paris with its fall 2024 menswear collection, not a debut. Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore’s history in the City of Light is related to their friendship with Heron Preston and Virgil Abloh and dates back to 2018 when WDW did rhinestone workshops with Preston—predating … Read more
Fumito Ganryu was explaining elements of his two collections—the mainline and his newer Red offering – by video call from Tokyo, while the pieces filled a number of racks in a Paris showroom. Red comprises an extroverted palette—from its titular fire engine hue to pylon orange, deep burgundy, and frosty shades of blue—whereas the main … Read more
Thinking about legacy is second nature to Bryan Conway, who worked with Christopher Bailey at Burberry. Since joining Tiger of Sweden, Conway’s mission has been to define what a Swedish heritage brand is, and he’s been looking for answers—and materials—from the source. He’s been inspired by the architecture in Stockholm, photographed Swedish tourists in Mallorca … Read more
That the word “clothes” has become a buzzword, with designers emphasizing newfound commitments to making just really good clothes, is somewhat puzzling. Shouldn’t this have always been the point? Either way, at the Japanese label Auralee, “good clothes” have been a guiding principle from the start. Designer Ryota Iwai has built a devoted fan base … Read more
There was no moodboard at Setchu’s fall preview. “I just started the collection from a white sheet of paper,” said designer Satoshi Kuwata. He crumpled a corner of the paper, leaving the rest intact. It was intended as a self-explanatory gesture: the margin joining the crinkles and the flat surface is the liminal, undefined, borderless … Read more
Tod’s presented its fall collection at its usual location, the modernist Villa Necchi Campiglio; it was designed by the in-house studio, as Matteo Tamburini, the new creative director replacing Walter Chiapponi, will stage his first women’s collection in February. The tableau-vivant setup had models sitting on iconic pieces of contemporary design, wrapped with ample swatches … Read more
56 years after launching his very first collection (of ties, under the name Polo), Ralph Lauren is still very much in the saddle. According to the Lauren staffer on hand at this Milan presentation for Purple Label, the designer begins every episode of this collection by considering fabrics, just as you would when commissioning a … Read more
he fashion ley lines run deep and strong beneath Zona Tortona in Milan. Jerry Lorenzo held the first Fear of God presentation that I can ever remember happening during a Fashion Week this evening, in the rented Superstudio space in that neighborhood, where he said: “about 80 percent of this collection is done. And about … Read more
Cooking is a new-ish passion for Our Legacy’s Christopher Nying, who grew up in a home where food was an expression of love. He spread the amore this season by taking over a restaurant in Milan and preparing a meal for a gathering of friends and colleagues. His fall collection, called Feast, was similarly hospitable. … Read more
