Hideaki Shikama has been in an introspective mood. “I’ve been reconsidering Children of the Discordance and also rethinking myself,” said the designer during a preview of this fall 2024 lineup. More specifically, Shikama has been ruminating on how he can continue to use his label as a vehicle to pursue originality and how he can … Read more
Dries Van Noten put together an essay on what he called “the elegance of the unexpected” for his fall men’s show. In many ways it read as another chapter of the “familiar-unfamiliar, unfamiliar-familiar” theme he talked about at his last women’s show. He started and ended with elongated, black tailored coats in silhouettes that made … Read more
Martine Rose convened another of her phenomenally heart-warming, powerfully directional shows in London on January 6. Roses were everywhere—grandparents, parents, sisters, brothers, cousins, and her children. Friends stood, whooped, danced, and cheered while the models—a cast of her favorite local heroes—proceeded to high-style it out. It was part Vogue ball, part riotous community fund-raising event—a … Read more
Spoiler alert: no speedos appear in Lazoschmidl’s fall 2024 collection. That’s not to say it’s not a seductive lineup, but it feels like a coming-of-age moment for the brand given the polish, attention to detail, and more “dressed” designs. Though there’s some irony in that, as Josef Lazo and Andreas Schmidl actually cycled back to … Read more
“I don’t really want to mention timelessness,” said 032c’s Maria Koch during a preview of her new collection. “This is too much to ask for when it comes to fashion.” The 032c ready-to-wear label debuted on the runway today in Paris. Having started as a line of merch for the magazine, subsequently developing into a … Read more
Yohji Yamamoto creates like a painter, an architect, a composer, a singer, a writer. He is a designer with an endless fascination for artists—the individualism, the impulses, and the archetypes. Tonight’s show progressed through movements, through scenes, through chapters, through stanzas. From the loosely knotted poets’ blouse and a coat with peaked shoulders, to the … Read more
All of a sudden, Hed Mayner found himself putting his fall collection together in a time of war. “War was always something that your father and grandfather talked about,” he said during a showroom visit. “Now, for the first time, it’s my generation.” Mayner and his team persisted, focusing on a new tack for him: … Read more
This week, the 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist Angelo Urrutia turned up in Paris with a few noteworthy ideas about honoring French couture, the idea of America, and authorship. “I love American things, from Coca Cola to rock and roll to sports jackets and yoga pants,” the designer said during a walk-through of his fall … Read more
Were it not for the irresistible lure of Lemaire, people attending today’s show might have opted to remain under the covers, such was the dreary, cold, wet weather this morning. As it happens, the collection duly accommodated both scenarios: soft underpinnings and pajamas for staying in that, through deft layering, do double duty as city … Read more
“When I see people wearing denim today it seems new again,” said Jonny Johansson over speakerphone from Sweden. Kept at home by family matters, he was checking in to the presentation in Paris, where Acne Studios was unveiling the results of the creatively fired founder’s return to a genre he calls “rebellious denim.” The fabric … Read more
