Umit Benan presented his luxurious B+ line right after Milan Fashion Week. His aim with B+ is to offer impeccable quality and made-to-measure service. Benan is deeply fascinated by Italian and Japanese fashion of the 1980s—he mentioned names such as Armani, Ferré, Miyake, and Yamamoto during a showroom visit—and that’s why his silhouettes are soft … Read more
Gianni Versace, Yohji Yamamoto. Dries Van Noten, Rei Kawakubo, Giorgio Armani. This Engineered Garments collection sees Daiki Suzuki pay homage to the designers who inspired the formative years of his career back in the ’80s, all in his signature magpie aesthetic. A collage of two tones of paisley shirting together in one style feels reminiscent … Read more
Refined, classically inclined, quietly luxurious. Gabriela Hearst’s menswear is many things, but sexy is not necessarily one of them. That changes though with her fall 2024 offering. In the look book, there’s a sliver of midriff between a snug cable knit sweater and the low slung, slightly flared pants paired with it. The hip-huggers are … Read more
Through Nicholas Daley’s distinctive lens, a print is never just a print. (Even if that eye-catching plaid or block pattern does serve its purpose as a print, drawing attention to a pair of trousers or a jacket.) Instead, for Daley, a print is a window into the world—or, more accurately, worlds—he’s exploring each season; a … Read more
Hung La, the Vietnamese-American co-founder of Kwaidan Editions and the designer behind this bad-boy brand—its name means “dangerous man” in Vietnamese—brought his sixth collection to Paris this week, taking over a small gallery in the arty-scruffy upper reaches of the rue Saint Martin. An engineer by training, La earned his stripes working at Balenciaga in … Read more
Ranra designers Arnar Már Jónsson and Luke Stevens are well aware that on first sight their fall collection doesn’t look wildly different from the previous two; but they are confident that the clothes fit and feel better. The designers returned to being completely hands-on, which is maybe why the outdoor clothes they shot inside in … Read more
Substitute “he” or “they” for “she” in ZZ Top’s famous lyrics—“She got legs / She knows how to use them”—and you come directly to one of Stefano Pilati’s preoccupations for his fall 2024 Random Identities collection. Gams, pins, sticks…call them what you will, but they’re on show in the designer’s interpretation of formal, skin-baring Bermuda-ish … Read more
This week, Reid Baker and Ines Amorim posted a clip to the Ernest W. Baker account that shows the full ambiance for this collection. It was shot in a ’70s-era bingo hall in their home base of Porto, all sleek and shiny and retro with gaudy splashes of chrome, neon, and gold. It was a … Read more
Marine Serre has been leavening her shows with menswear for a while now, and during the last three seasons has taken to showing her mainline during the men’s weeks in Paris. But what you see here, she said, is her first full and standalone menswear collection. “I’ve been building my masculine archetypes,” Serre said in … Read more
The disastrous flaw in this ERL collection was starkly obvious: you never let the surfer drive you to the prom. I won’t give away the full plot of this season’s Eli Russell Linnetz Don’t Look Now-influenced lookbook-meets-storyboard, but suffice it to say that the dude was 100 per cent baked. Linnetz sets up his collections … Read more
