Sunflower’s take on the trending ’80s was informed by New York’s two poles during that decade: Punk and Power. On paper, Richard Hell and Gordon Gekko might make strange bedfellows, but their sartorial codes wove together nicely in the Danish brand’s fall collection, which was presented on the runway in Paris, and shown to Vogue … Read more
Soulland, which pulled back from shows a few seasons ago, presented a fairly formulaic fall collection by appointment. Silhouettes stayed mostly static, while textiles (note the neon tapestry floral) and prints changed. There’s a wonderful “logo” print made from a pencil drawing by Silas Adler’s son, where the s in the brand name is turned … Read more
A connection to nature and the ability to find beauty in the quotidian is part of the Scandinavian ethos. In a voiceover on the soundtrack of her show, Emilie Helmstedt urged the audience to find treasure in the everyday. She certainly does that through her fashions, which depict organic forms such as clouds, mushrooms, and … Read more
Having dived deep into the sea to emerge in pearls for spring 2024, Caroline Engelgaar and her team at Mark Kenly Domino Tan took to the skies this season. Oh, to fly away! It’s the ultimate escapist fantasy. “You’re allowed to dream,” for the eight minute duration of a show, “even though the world is … Read more
Baum und Pferdgarten is celebrating its 25th anniversary this season. When Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave started their label back in 1999 (referenced by the “Since 99” jumper in the new collection), there were only a handful of brands in Copenhagen. Of course, this was a pre-street style, pre-social media era—a time when brands could … Read more
The size and energy of the crowd at Henrik Vibskov’s show was like that at a concert. He’s the OG of the Copenhagen scene, a man who has always gone his own way, and who regularly applies his creative mind to projects outside of fashion. At the end of last year the new King and … Read more
Paolina Russo returned to Copenhagen Fashion Week for its sophomore show, after winning the inaugural Zalando Visionary Award last season. The London-based brand’s inclusion on the schedule is a reflection of the city’s growing global audience, along with its focus on sustainability. It makes sense then that design duo Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard are … Read more
In corporate culture (at least of yore) the first three months of employment is probationary. At Filippa K, Saint Laurent alum Liisa Kessler’s first three collections were the equivalent of corporate months, but the designer has clearly eased into her position and found her footing with her new collection for fall 2024, which feels confident … Read more
