Sportmax Pre-Fall 2024 Collection | Vogue

Sportmax’s design studio went for a “more with less” approach for pre-fall, drawing upon references to the Mod culture of the 1960s, the Belle de Jour bourgeois look, and the sleek modernism of the ubiquitous ’90s.

Silhouettes were kept clean and fitted, aligned with the current trend of less oversized proportions; sportswear influences were also ditched in favor of a more urban approach. Formal tailoring looked refreshed; suits’ blazers were short and boxy or elongated and hour-glassy, cinched at the waist by thin belts and paired with miniskirts or shorts for a younger appeal. The Belle de Jour reference played out in sleek trompe l’oeil corset slipdresses, or in glittery numbers in crystal mesh for a dash of extravagance.

A minimal ‘90s attitude was apparent in lycra tube skirts and bandeau tops, variously layered and juxtaposed to create a sculpted, bodycon look. Syncing up with the research on new materials the brand is known for, leather was made robust by a bonded lining, knitted textures were rubberized, and a glossy, thermo-sensitive fabric changed color with the touch of the hand. It was rendered into a cool boxy blouson with matching miniskirt.

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