Paolina Russo returned to Copenhagen Fashion Week for its sophomore show, after winning the inaugural Zalando Visionary Award last season. The London-based brand’s inclusion on the schedule is a reflection of the city’s growing global audience, along with its focus on sustainability.
It makes sense then that design duo Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard are leaning into their label’s international appeal. “It’s always been our dream to travel with the brand; we don’t see it living in just one place,” Russo said in a preview. “It’s amazing that we can grow this community of like-minded people in Copenhagen.”
Shared experiences across borders served as the starting point for this season’s collection, entitled “Cul-de-Sac.” Russo and Guilmard grew up on dead-end roads in a suburb of Toronto and on the west coast of France respectively. “We wanted to make our own Neolithic-like cul-de-sac; our own Paolina Russo suburb,” Russo explained.
Continuing last season’s prehistoric theme, a circular set featuring giant stone-like sculptures formed the backdrop to the night-time presentation. The designers collaborated with Danish artist Esben Weile Kjær, whose work also explores “suburban boredom and coming-of-age rituals,” for a performance that saw models writhing around entangled in balloons shaped like the sun and animals, representing a modern take on monolithic carvings.
In a smart move for the young brand, the pair doubled down on their signature illusion knitwear and sporty lycra separates, while introducing new silhouettes, such as a playful peplum-esque miniskirt, layered over joggers, and wearable wrap cardigans. The color palette was wintry in feeling, comprising earthy tones and pastel shades inspired by the way subtle rainbows are formed as “the light hits the snow.”
Craft is an important focus, as is adopting eco-conscious techniques. Pom-pom embellishments were made from leftover yarn from last season, while woven dresses were naturally dyed in Scotland by placing ice cubes on top of powder pigments. “When the ice melts, this is when the dyes drip into the fabric,” Guilmard said.
It’s clear that Paolina Russo is a brand that’s growing in confidence—with its creative directors itching to take their nomadic vision elsewhere. “It’d be amazing to bring this all over the world,” Russo said. “Copenhagen is our first stop.”
