Mossi Traoré dreams big. Somehow, despite being an indie designer and an outlier, he also manages to make those dreams come true. Through persistence, talent and charm, he has met his Bollywood idol and traveled the world sans expense account to fuse his notion of inclusive, ethical couture with craftsmanship from other cultures. Thirteen years ago, as he was ramping up his brand, he also founded Les Ateliers d’Alix—named for his fashion heroine, Madame Grès—to teach couture techniques to underprivileged youths living well beyond the périphérique. That social initiative now counts dozens of alums in the studios at Chanel, Dior, and elsewhere.
This month, Traoré reached a couple of milestones. He took home the Grand Prix de la Création de la Ville de Paris, a major nod to his impact in fashion. And Chanel officially signed on as the main partner for Les Ateliers d’Alix, effectively taking over the administrative reins so that he can switch back into “Mossi mode.”
“What I really wanted is to find a little more time to create, and especially to shine a light on couture that can be worn every day,” Traoré said backstage before his show.
For spring, he revisited the classics in graceful, fluid jersey or structured Japanese denim and cool wool with color blocking in black, white, and royal blue. Several pieces, including a couple of white blouses, a pleated black maxi dress, a sleeveless white ensemble and a black jumpsuit veiled in sheer white looked both on-point and timeless. Intricate fabric treatments paid homage to the work of the octogenarian French textile sculptor Simone Pheulpin, to striking effect on a white dress that closed the show (the mauve handbags were also noteworthy). Plaid has been cropping up all over Paris this season; for the first time, Traoré gamely tackled that motif on some breezy-looking numbers in pink or blue check.
In recent years, Mossi has been spotlighted at major shopping destinations like the Printemps flagship in Paris. With its renewed focus and a recently unveiled e-shop, the brand should finally be able to expand its reach.
