Francisco Cancino didn’t hold a runway show this season. Instead, he presented his new collection in his workshop located in the historic Edificio Humboldt in the center of Mexico City, which dates back to 1922, and is a few blocks from other equally emblematic spaces that have nourished the Mexican imagination for decades. All these small details give context to the designer’s 10th collection—an important milestone for any independent designer, whether in Mexico or elsewhere in the world.
Taking as his starting point Diego Rivera’s mural Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Central, a work that brings together characters and stereotypes of its time to tell a story of Mexico itself, the designer looked to his own archives for inspiration.
A key character of this collection is Cancino’s loyal customer, who comes to him for Mexican folkloric clothing with a modern touch. His traditional blouses will prove to be a success, especially with the recent revival of the boho trend. Seductive party-ready dresses were made in bold colors—rare in the brand’s archive—from vintage fabrics; while tailoring made with brocade and undone hems, and military-inspired jackets in linen offered elegant moments with unexpected twists.
It was a collection dominated by a kind of poetic eclecticism that did not forget its commercial side. That speaks to the maturity Cancino has achieved, not only as a designer, but also as an entrepreneur.
