Christian Wijnants is in reset mode. After a two-year break—during which a sideline made him a collateral victim in a drama of money and murder known informally as the “Belgian Versace” scandal, followed by a retreat to Sri Lanka and a newfound dedication to yoga. He returned with a spring collection rooted in serenity. It was set to a soundtrack any yoga devotee would appreciate.
In gilded salons overlooking the Arc de Triomphe, Wijnants described this outing as a “peaceful, personal experience.” A collection intended to enhance serenity and repose was defined by soft tailoring, forgiving shapes, flowing scarves and an overarching sense of ease.
“Cliché as it sounds, I wanted to go back to how everything was slower during the pandemic,” he offered, adding, “I wanted to reconnect with a serenity in my life that I had not experienced in a long, long time.”
The “less is more” mantra inspired the designer to rein in his hallmark hot color and prints in favor of organic textures like raffia —winningly on a deep-V dress or sleeveless top—topstitched stripes or organza printed and layered to create “perfectly imperfect” checked motifs. There was a newfound emphasis on shoulders, for example in white linen safari jackets, corsetry, summer knits or shirting constructed to sit back from the nape, just so. Sleeveless bombers were cut in Japanese cotton-coated organdy. Prints, though impressionistic, remained understated, in shades of gray punched up with dabs of copper, green or royal blue. The designer drew on the work of textile artist Mrinalini Mukherjee, whose work with cords was reiterated in pieces worked in organic crochet and macramé.
In the front row were several clients dressed in the rich colors, prints and textile treatments that Wijnants has focused on for 22 years now. This collection may have been restrained by comparison, and while not everything connected, it was good to see him back in the game.
