Baum und Pferdgarten is celebrating its 25th anniversary this season. When Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave started their label back in 1999 (referenced by the “Since 99” jumper in the new collection), there were only a handful of brands in Copenhagen. Of course, this was a pre-street style, pre-social media era—a time when brands could afford to be more experimental. Baum’s first fashion show in 2005 was “crazy,” said Baumgarten in a preview, with the looks getting progressively more extreme.
The duo met while studying at the Royal Danish Academy. In the past two and a half decades, the brand’s aesthetic has undergone various reinventions, moving from voluminous silhouettes, maximalist prints, and frills, to more tailored looks—reflecting the tension between Baumgarten’s more playful approach and Hestehave’s minimalism that’s at the core of the brand. Recently, bold color has become Baum’s calling card, as seen on the Scandi street-style set.
For fall 2024, the pair have brought back several pieces from the vaults: a white shift dress from 20 years ago, featuring rose motifs, feels surprisingly modern, while a signature double-breasted coat has been updated with a new zebra print. But this was by no means a greatest hits collection. The offering was much more pared-back than we’ve come to expect from Baum, from the pinstripe tailoring and boxy white shirts to the sleek black dresses—a change in mood that was emphasized by the simple set design. Even the sequins felt more grown up this season, particularly when paired with the sportier and more utilitarian pieces.
This pivot was intentional; Baumgarten and Hestehave have been thinking about their customers’ growing concerns about fashion’s environmental impact. “It’s important as designers to be brave and [make] these shifts,” Baumgarten explained. “The world is changing. We feel that people are much more concerned about buying and sustainable choices. We need to react to that. A collection doesn’t need to embrace everything in a wardrobe.”
As the brand enters this more considered new chapter, marked by a surprise confetti explosion during the finale, it’s clear that there’s plenty to celebrate. Here‘s to the next 25 years.
