I often don’t have the required size of cake or tart tin called for in a recipe. How many tins does a person need? If I don’t have the right size, should I go smaller or larger?
Nicky, Norwich
“You know Maslow’s hierarchy of needs? Well, I think of baking kit a bit like that,” says pastry chef Nicola Lamb, whose first book, Sift, is out in May. At the bottom of the pyramid, you’ve got basic needs, such as food and safety, then, at the top, there are life’s luxuries. “So, while a six-inch (15cm) tin would be nice if you’re into layer cakes, it’s not necessary,” she says, whereas a round/eight-inch (20cm) springform cake tin is essential. Guardian baking columnist Benjamina Ebuehi agrees (although she prefers a simple loose-bottomed tin to a springform one), while Sarah Lemanski, founder of Nova Bakehouse in Leeds, likes a nine-inch (23cm) springform.
When it comes to tarts, Ebuehi keeps two 23cm tins in her arsenal: “If you’re making a lemon or chocolate tart, a shallow tin is nice, but if you’re making a quiche or custard tart, you’ll want something deeper,” she says. What other paraphernalia you equip your kitchen with really depends on what you like to bake; a couple of sandwich tins would be up there for Ebuehi and Lemanski, while Lamb’s go-to is a 20cm square tin for brownies and the like.
Loaf tins are another matter altogether. “They’re one of my biggest bugbears,” Lamb says. “Is 1lb the maximum amount of dough that will fit in it, or is it the ideal amount? I don’t know, and neither do manufacturers.” For this reason, she sticks to measurements: “a 24cm x 14½cm x 6cm loaf tin gives consistent results.”
Happily, cake is still possible if you’re lacking the right size of tin for the job, but there are certain things to consider. “The concern with a really deep amount of batter [when using a smaller tin] is that the outside will get crusty and overcooked before the middle is done,” Lamb explains, although, conversely, if you bake a 20cm cake in a 23cm tin, say, it will be shallower and will therefore cook faster. On balance, though, Lamb would be inclined to size up: “Lower the temperature slightly, be aware of those signs of readiness, which could be that it smells and/or looks right, and be prepared to whip out the tin foil and cover if it’s browning too quickly.” And avoid overfilling the tin. “That’s key, so don’t go above halfway,” says Ebuehi, who bakes any surplus batter in a cupcake tray.
You could, of course, scale the recipe to suit your tin size, which is Lemanski’s preferred strategy. “Say I want to fill a nine-inch round pan with the same amount of batter called for in a recipe for an eight-inch pan, divide the area of the first pan (64 square inches) by the area of the second (50), and that will give the number to multiply each ingredient by to achieve the intended results.” That said, you might then get into the mess that is fractions of eggs, but we must all suffer for our art.
Finally, to keep those tart dreams alive, Lamb suggests using a slightly smaller tin. “You don’t want to stretch the pastry, so get the thickness right and freeze any excess,” she says – or use it (plus leftover filling) to make a bonus mini tart and have yourself an afternoon snack.
