Top tip for anyone considering a holiday in Milos: hire a car. A four-wheel-drive vehicle, to be precise. The majority of the best hotels, restaurants, and beaches are spread across the Greek island, accessible via a network of snaking roads—some of which are slim, steep, and rocky, with the occasional sheer drop on one side. ATVs are another popular mode of transport on Milos, but I’d opt for a car if you want a more comfortable experience, especially if you visit in the height of summer (like I did) when the midday temperatures are upwards of 34 degrees Celsius.
In true Zillennial style, I first came across Milos on Instagram, where I saw Reels of its scenic views and various foodie hot spots. Of course, I wanted to explore beyond the buzzy, tourist spots, but they were a good starting point to get a feel for the isle and what it has to offer.
My friend and I (shout out to her, the designated driver for the trip), traveled to Milos by ferry from Sifnos, opting for a stunning two-and-a-bit journey on a slow ship, chosen over the tourist-friendly Sea Jets, which I was told can induce sea sickness—we didn’t want to take the risk. We sunbathed on the top deck, trying to hold onto our spinach and feta pastries (a must-have delicacy) and books as the Meltemi—the strong summer wind that takes over the Cyclades—threatened to send them overboard.
There are memes circulating about the Dune-esque experience when the bow doors of Greek island ferries drop down onto land, and I can attest it does feel quite otherworldly standing in the car park in the belly of the ship, waiting to see what lies ahead. First impressions: Milos harbour, Adamantas, is the tourist-y area of Milos. That said, there are several good eateries, namely, O! Hamos!—you can’t book, so arrive early if you want to get a table—and plenty of bars if that’s what you’re after. We watched the Euros final in Adamantas and it was positively bustling.
