Central and eastern European wines are nothing new. Quaffable and affordable Romanian wines are now stalwarts on supermarket shelves, and Hungary, of course, has long been known for its tokaji: elegant straw-hued whites that run the gamut from dry to dessert wine. But what about other countries in what was once known as the Eastern bloc? Slovenia and Slovakia, the Czech Republic and Poland all have rich winemaking histories – and they’re also responsible for some of the most delicious wines I’ve tasted all year.
Zainab Majerikova of Basket Press Wines, an importer that specialises in central Europe, says winemaking in the region is as old as it is in the likes of France and Spain; and in the Czech Republic, which is obviously more famous for its beers, wine predates brewing by some 1,000 years. “During communism, though, the wines were kept inside the region for local drinkers,” she explains. Basket Press and other specialist importers such as Central Wines, whose focus is more on Poland, are trying to change this.
Largely, these wines are made in small quantities and come at prices that reflect that, although Slovenia has good (mostly white) wines across a broad spectrum of price points – even Lidl has dabbled in the past. The Waitrose number in today’s pick is a blend of two international grapes, sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio, both of which can be a bit dull when they fly solo and under the £10 mark, but together, as here, they make for a zippy, nicely rounded drop. Slovenia borders the north-east Italian region of Friuli-Venezia, and the two regions’ wines have some common ground, among them the friulano grape (or sauvignonasse). The Krasno in today’s pick is well worth a try – for Slovenia, it’s a relatively big and fruity, but is still fresh – and would pair well with spice or creamy pastas or gratins as the nights start drawing in.
Many central European wines are food-friendly, too, not least the field blends, or wines composed of two or more grapes that are all grown in one vineyard before being co-fermented together. Krasna Hora’s La Blanca from south Moravia in the Czech Republic is a blend of six grapes that include riesling, gewürztraminer and sauvignon blanc. Each brings something different to the party, and the result is a balanced, aromatic dry wine that’s really versatile with food, especially (always tricky) spicy dishes. I drank it with Meera Sodha’s scrambled tofu akuri, and had the Štajerska Kollektiv white, a brilliant, rounded eastern Slovenian blend of sauvignon blanc, welschriesling and furmint, with dal and rice. After all, such dishes, with their orchestras of spices and seasonings, benefit from being paired with a wine that also sings a lot of notes.
At £20 and £16, however, neither of them comes cheap, although London-based Newcomer Wines produced the Kollektiv specifically in an effort to make an affordable “house” wine with sustainable credentials. It’s motivating Štajerska growers to convert to organic farming by giving them better prices for their wine than if they’d stuck to conventional practices. “If we can convert land and produce great wine, then there is ‘value’,” says Newcomers’ Peter Honegger. Meanwhile, if burgundy is more your thing, give the “serious” Czech and Slovakian pinot noirs and chardonnays a try, Majerikova says: “Then the pricing becomes very good value indeed.”
Five eastern European wines worth a splurge
Puklavec & Friends Sauvignon Blanc & Pinot Grigio £9.79 Waitrose, 11.5% Fresh, fun Slovenian blend of two big-ticket grapes that will make friends easily with whatever’s on the table.
Klet Brda ‘Krasno’ Sauvignonasse 2021, Goriška Brda Majestic £9.99, 14.5% A lively Slovenian friulano with pear and tarragon notes. Will stand up to big flavours, be that cheese, cream or spice.
Štajerska Kollektiv White 2021 £16 Newcomer Wines, 12.5% Moreish, aromatic Slovenian field blend that’s great for both palate and planet.
Krasna Hora La Blanca 2023 £20 Basket Press Wines, 12% A floral, balanced Czech field blend that’s great with spicy food.
Burja Zelen Vipava White 2022 £24 Les Caves de Pyrene, 12.5% A knockout indigenous single-varietal from Slovenia – treat yourself.
