Halfway down the fridge is a drawer where I keep the citrus fruit. Bracingly bitter marmalade oranges in winter; knobbly limes for green curries; pink grapefruits and blood oranges for their rose-tinted juice. This year they were joined by tiny clementines the size of golf balls, and yuzus, for which I paid a king’s ransom, simply for their spirit-lifting scent.
Their juices, which differ in sweetness, can be fun to blend. I particularly like the spicy marriage of orange and lime. A blend of lemon and blood orange – say, one of lemon to three of orange – is as fragrant as walking through a citrus grove on a winter’s morning. A glass of it is an uplifting start to the day, but it is also a refreshing base for dressings or for a tropical fruit salad with mango and papaya.
I have been marinating snow-white halibut in a mixture of lime and orange juice, adding passion fruit seeds for crunch and their juice for its deep sunset orange hue. Given 30 minutes in a citrus and green chilli marinade, the fish becomes opaque and toothsome, something to toss with mint and coriander leaves for a light spring lunch.
The blood orange season is longer now and they are still as firm and sweet-sharp as when they first appeared in January. I am as grateful for them now as I was in the middle of winter. Tossed with deep emerald peppery watercress, they form one of my favourite salads, especially if I remember to sprinkle the fruit with a little Japanese shichimi togarashi powder with its notes of citrus peel, dried chilli and dark nori.
The pink grapefruit is the grey squirrel of the citrus world, making the classic white grapefruit of my childhood feel almost extinct. The zest and juice of either fruit makes a fine cold soufflé or soft, thick curd. This week I made a posset with them, a primrose-yellow cream, whose thick and creamy texture lay between curd and panna cotta. The deep citrus notes are perfectly pitched for a slightly nippy spring day.
Ceviche with orange and passion fruit
A light and refreshing dish, in which the fish needs just 30 minutes or so to “cook” in its marinade. I like to introduce the shallot or onion to the marinade after the initial rest, so the onion notes are gentle and the onions still have a little crunch.
Scallops thickly sliced, salmon or firm, thick white fish all take well to being used in a ceviche. A little goes a surprisingly long way, but even more so if you include some leaves. The pepperiness of watercress is good here, but also the softer, slightly bitter notes of chicory. A tangle of pea shoots is delightful.
It is essential the dish be served chilled, but take it from the fridge a few minutes before serving.
Serves 2-3. Ready in 40 minutes
white fish such as sea bass or farmed halibut, filleted and skinned weight, 375g
blood oranges 3, one of them juiced (about 100ml)
limes juice of 2 (about 60ml)
passion fruit 3
hot green chilli 1
white wine vinegar 2 tsp
shallot or red onion 2 tbsp, finely chopped
coriander 1 small bunch
mint 15 leaves
Cut the fish into cubes, roughly 2cm, and put them in a shallow bowl. Mix together the juices of 1 orange and the limes. Halve the passion fruit, then scoop out the juice and seeds with a teaspoon and add to the juices.
Slice the chilli in half, discard the seeds and core, then finely chop. Stir into the juices. Add the fish and vinegar to the juices and toss gently, then set aside in the fridge for 20-30 minutes. A few hours longer will not hurt, but don’t leave the fish in its marinade overnight, as the texture may turn “woolly”.
Slice the peel and pith from the blood oranges and separate the segments with a knife. Peel the shallot or red onion, then finely dice. Stir the shallot or red onion into the fish. Taste the dressing and correct with more vinegar if necessary. It should be fruity and refreshing with a slight note of acidity.
Chop the coriander and mint leaves, not too finely, then stir them into the dressing together with the segments of blood orange. Set aside for a few minutes before serving.
Posset of pink grapefruit
The posset – a smooth, creamy dessert – looks delightful in small cups or glasses. The amount in each will be small, but the dessert is rich, much creamier and sweeter than panna cotta, and is best served in elegant quantities.
You will need 4 wine glasses or small china ramekins.
Makes 4. Ready in 4½ hours
pink grapefruit 2
double cream 500ml
caster sugar 150g
To decorate: crystallised rose petals or thin strips of crystallised orange peel
Grate the zest from 1 grapefruit. Cut the fruit in half and squeeze the juice. You will need 90ml.
Put the cream, caster sugar and grapefruit zest in a saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. (You may find it has a mild tendency to curdle, in which case just give it a quick whisk with a small whisk.) Lower the heat and leave to bubble for 3 minutes, no longer, stirring from time to time.
Remove from the heat, stir in the grapefruit juice and leave to settle. Pour into 4 small wine glasses or cups and leave to cool. Refrigerate for 3-4 hours until set.
To finish, cut the peel from the other grapefruit, removing every bit of white pith. Separate the segments and set aside with any juice. (I make sure to squeeze the removed peel over them. It always has bit of fruit attached.) When the possets are set, place a few segments of grapefruit on each, and if you wish, a crystallised rose petal or piece of crystallised peel.
We aim to publish recipes for fish rated as sustainable by the Marine Conservation Society’s Good Fish Guide
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