MILAN — The fashion crowd traversed Milan countless times on the third day of fashion week Friday, defying rain, traffic tie-ups and a local transport strike all in the name of the next big trend. By late afternoon, shows were running a full hour late as the fleet of black sedans, shuttles and taxis couldn’t keep up the runway pace.
Donatella Versace put the world back to rights, starting her evening show right on time.
Here are some highlights from Friday’s shows of mostly womenswear previews for Fall-Winter 2024-25.
Sabato De Sarno added just a little sparkle to his second Gucci womenswear collection as he continued to build fashion house’s new codes.
Apparently simple silhouettes like a belted coat, an apron romper and plunging neck-line tunic project sexiness and power, showing off a bit of leg and the season’s new equestrian boot that rises just above the knee.
Long outerwear, worn over short-shorts and simple corsets, are decorated with sequins and crystal beading that give an ombre effect, and transition confidently into sequined shifts and halter cocktail dresses, diaphanous slip dresses and cozy knitwear.
No-pants looks highlighted the simplicity of mini peacoats, bombers and knitwear, as well as the season’s footwear, including platform versions of the signature loafers. The new Gucci oxblood red anchored the bold color palette of navy, mustard, olive green and aubergine. It was most striking in a wavy oxblood-and-black intarsia leather jacket.
The collection did not shout Gucci with logos and familiar motifs; it whispered it in what the show notes described as “a staging of small subversive acts.”
De Sarno promised details that can be experienced when worn — like hidden buttoning in the back of coats “that transforms them into an embrace — or seen only from up close, like a geometric heron hidden in a jacquard.”
In the final look, a deep slit in a long wool sheath allowed a model to hit her stride — just like De Sarno.
Kirsten Dunst, Julia Garner and Solange Knowles took front row seats, along with De Sarno’s parents, the first to give a standing ovation.
