Ramadan in Jerusalem holds a special place in my heart, and evokes a blend of spirituality, community and tradition. A vibrant atmosphere envelops the city, the streets come alive with bustling markets selling festive foods, sweets and decorations, and the aroma of fresh baking fills the air.
Easy maqluba
Maqluba translates to “upside down”, which perfectly describes the cooking method and presentation of this traditional Palestinian dish. It’s typically made with layers of rice, vegetables and meat all in one pot and arranged in such a way that, when the dish is flipped on to a platter, the rice ends up at the bottom and the meat and vegetables on top, revealing its beautiful layers. It’s super-comforting, hearty, impressive and just perfect for sharing at Ramadan gatherings. Serve with the cooling mint yoghurt on the side.
Prep 15 min
Soak 30 min
Cook 1 hr 20 min
Serves 4
160g basmati rice
4 large chicken legs (about 1kg)
75ml sunflower oil
Salt and black pepper
1 large aubergine (430g), cut into 3cm chunks
1 small cauliflower (450g), separated into large florets
2-3 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, cut into ½cm slices
4 large garlic cloves, peeled and halved
450ml chicken stock
½ tsp ground turmeric
½ tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground allspice
6 cardamom pods, slightly crushed
30g toasted almonds
1 tbsp chopped parsley
For the mint yoghurt
250g Greek yoghurt
1 small garlic clove, peeled and crushed
¼ tsp dried mint
5 fresh mint leaves, shredded
1½ tbsp lemon juice
¼ tsp salt
Heat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/475F/gas 9. Wash the rice, then soak it in a bowl of cold water and a half-teaspoon of salt for at least 30 minutes.
Put the chicken on an oven tray lined with greaseproof paper, add two tablespoons of oil, a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper, toss to coat, then roast for 30-35 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the aubergine and cauliflower in a bowl, add the remaining oil, three-quarters of a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper, and mix well. Transfer to a second lined oven tray and bake for 22 minutes, until golden brown.
When the chicken is cooked, shred the meat into large pieces, discarding the skin and bones. Arrange the sliced tomatoes in the base of a roughly 24cm-wide x 12cm-deep pot, overlapping them slightly. Top with the roast aubergine, followed by the chicken and cauliflower. Drain the rice, spread it on top, then scatter over the halved garlic cloves.
In a jug, whisk the stock and all the spices with a teaspoon of salt and a quarter-teaspoon of pepper, pour over the rice, then gently press down with your hands to make sure all the rice is covered with stock; add a little extra stock (or water) if need be.
Bring the mix to a simmer on a medium heat, then cover the pan, turn down the heat to low and leave to cook for 25 minutes. Take off the heat, remove the lid and lay a clean tea towel over the pot – this will stop any condensation dripping back into the rice. Pop the lid back on and set aside for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, mix all the yoghurt ingredients in a bowl.
Lift the lid and tea towel off the pot and put a large, round serving plate over the open pan. Carefully and quickly invert the pan, holding both sides firmly, then leave the pot on the plate for two minutes. Slowly and carefully lift it off, then garnish the maqluba with the almonds and parsley and serve with the yoghurt sauce.
Pickled aubergine with coriander seeds
Pickles provide a necessary acidity to complement all sorts of meals; this one can be enjoyed on its own with a drink or as part of a spread.
Prep 15 min
Cook 20 min
Pickle 1 day +
Serves 4
1½ tbsp coarse sea salt
2 tbsp caster sugar
230ml white-wine or cider vinegar
1 tbsp coriander seeds
3 garlic cloves, peeled and cut in half
1 green chilli, cut into 3
1 large aubergines (450g), cut into 3cm chunks
To serve
Olive oil
Chopped coriander
Put the salt, sugar, vinegar, coriander seeds and 500ml water in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the garlic, chilli and aubergine, bring back to a boil, then turn down to a simmer and cook, stirring a few times, for 10 minutes, until the aubergine is soft and cooked through.
With a slotted spoon, lift the aubergines into a clean, one-litre glass jar, then pour the pickling liquid over the top and seal. Leave to cool slightly, then refrigerate for at least a day and up to a month.
To serve, arrange the pickle in a serving bowl, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with coriander.
Spicy herb and salted courgette salad
This goes with any main, and especially with maqluba, bringing a delicate, fresh contrast that works like a dream.
Prep 10 min
Steep 15 mins
Serves 4
2 courgettes (650g)
Flaked sea salt and black pepper
20g parsley leaves
10g tarragon leaves
15g dill leaves
15g mint leaves
4 spring onions (60g), thinly sliced at a sharp angle
½ tsp aleppo chilli flakes
2 tbsp lemon juice
1½ tsp apple cider vinegar
1½ tbsp olive oil
½ tsp white sesame seeds, toasted
½ tsp nigella seeds, toasted
½ tsp coriander seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
120g mixed leaves
Using a vegetable peeler, cut the courgettes from top to bottom into long, thin, wide ribbons and put in a sieve with a teaspoon of flaky salt. Toss, then set over a bowl and set aside to drain for 15 minutes.
Put the courgette ribbons in a large bowl with the herbs, spring onions, chilli, lemon juice, vinegar and oil, and add half the seeds, a teaspoon of flaked salt and a good grind of pepper. Toss to combine, transfer to a platter, sprinkle the remaining seeds on top and serve.
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Sami Tamimi is a chef and food writer.
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This article was edited on 9 March 2024, to clarify that the amount of cider vinegar required for the courgette salad is one and a half teaspoons. An earlier version omitted to mention the measurement.
