I arrived in Llandudno, north Wales, to blue skies, warm sunshine and a gentle breeze. A surge of optimism washed over me. The castellated bulk of Great Orme headland loomed to my left, the gentler outline of Little Orme to my right. Over the next six months, I would explore most of the 1,680 miles of Wales’s coastline for a new book charting the best places in the country to paddleboard (or canoe or kayak). I was hoping to spot some of the dolphins and porpoises that inhabit these waters on the way.
I hadn’t paddled in Wales since 2011, when I was battered by storms and sea sickness. With sturdier sea legs, an array of navigational gear and a van set up for some comfortable night-time stops, I completed my warm-up around the Great Orme before heading straight to Anglesey (Ynys Môn), the island whose waters had bested me before. This time, paddleboarding from the Britannia Bridge to Beaumaris, past beautiful islets and the romantic turrets of Château Rhianfa, ended not in a cold swim but with a visit to the excellent Central Bakery. (If you’re not sure about going it alone, try local guide Sian, based by the Menai Strait.)
Standup paddleboarding (SUP) has surged in popularity across the UK: with an estimated 600,000 people regularly getting out on the water, it is the fastest-growing water sport in the country. Just a half day’s tuition with a qualified instructor is enough to start solo or join a group or guided trip. Offering the freedom to mooch about on a beach or undertake an adventurous journey, paddleboarding is a great way to explore the UK’s waterways – and Wales has to be top of any bucket list, especially in the sunshine.
Anglesey’s weather was to be a paradox of brilliant blue skies and fierce force 5 winds, but I navigated around its coast, ticking off the places that had long been on my wishlist. From the Cemlyn Bay terns whistling past the board as they dived deep into the waters hunting for sand eels to the hidden coves of Llanddwyn Island and the wild beaches of Aberffraw, this coast exceeded all expectations. Exhausted yet exhilarated, I enjoyed the comfort of the van each night to reflect on the day’s adventure.
After Anglesey, I was looking forward to discovering more of the wild coast of the Llŷn peninsula, a region that few seem to have fully explored from the water. Launching from Trefor beach, I headed a mile west to find sea caves, majestic sea stacks and breathtaking views of Yr Eifl’s three peaks, then continued further to the idyllic beach location of the Tŷ Coch Inn. This protected bay is a great spot for beginners, with its gently shelving sands and plenty of people out on the water. If you don’t have the kit, Discover Llŷn delivers rental boards and equipment anywhere on the peninsula.
Along Llŷn’s southern coast, the soaring sea arches east of Aberdaron beach were wonderful to explore before I landed on the pebble beach of Porth Meudwy, a charming fishing cove. The surrounding cliffs provided a picturesque backdrop for observing the rare choughs’ aerial acrobatics, their calls resonating off the sandstone walls. Nearby, Abersoch Watersports provides a wide range of SUP equipment, lessons and hire.
The journey so far had been a blend of scenic bliss and challenging winds, so I was looking forward to exploring the more protected waters of the Dwyryd estuary, near Porthmadog. I based myself at Black Rock Sands Touring and Camping Park for day trips on the estuary. Launching from Borth-y-Gest village, beneath the majestic mountains of Snowdonia, I paddled upriver to Porthmadog, to the pastel spires of Portmeirion, and then explored the caves at Black Rock Sands at high water. Further upstream, on the Afon Dwyryd (River Dwyryd), I travelled through the ancient woodlands cloaking the Vale of Ffestiniog to exit at Maentwrog and spend a peaceful night at nearby Llechrwd campsite, a hidden riverside gem. I found it difficult to tear myself away from such an enchanting area, and it is perfectly suited for paddlers of all levels.
During my travels I encountered numerous enthusiastic local paddleboarding instructors. In north Wales I met Caz Dawson, and took her recommendation of a detour up the Mawddach estuary for lunch at the fabulous George III inn in Penmaenpool. Consulting the tide tables, I set off from Barmouth, allowing the gentle tide to guide me upstream past the vast bird-filled sandbanks, before returning south on the ebb tide.
Further south, Aberystwyth makes a good base for paddlers of all levels, with SUP hire, lessons and tours readily available (try aberoutdoors.co.uk or aberadventures.com). The more experienced boarders set off towards Clarach Bay or paddle the Ystwyth or Rheidol estuaries, while beginners and families enjoy the beach and pretty Victorian waterfront.
My quest continued to New Quay in Cardigan Bay, a picturesque town offering calm paddles to Llanina headland and Cei Bach beach, and adventurous routes to the secluded Cwmtydu beach, weaving past hidden caves, beaches and the teeming avian life of New Quay Head. The SUP Shack is a friendly B&B that also has a shop and cafe, while Cardigan Bay Watersports offers lessons and hire.
Cardigan Bay also boasts the largest semi-resident dolphin population in the British Isles too, numbering about 200. While tour boats offer glimpses of the dolphins, the most exciting encounters occur on a paddleboard (visit the Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife Centre and see the Whale and Dolphin Conservation tips on how to paddle responsibly near them).
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I launched from Harbour beach and slowly glided through the water. Suddenly they emerged: three dolphins racing towards me with a breathtaking display of agility. Overwhelmed with joy, I couldn’t help but lose my balance in excitement.
Further south, on the Pembrokeshire coast, I uncovered treasures like the Witches’ Cauldron – a mesmerising labyrinth of sea caves, tunnels and a secluded waterfall. For more experienced solo paddlers, the magnificent trip to these caves can be undertaken from Ceibwr Bay, or guided trips are run by Mayberry Kayaking or West Coast Paddle Company.
Other highlights included the breathtaking Blue Lagoon at Abereiddi, the cathedral-like sea caves near Stackpole Quay, and the awe-inspiring Blue Crater, accessible through a keyhole entrance in the cliff near Broad Haven South. There are some fantastic rural camping spots close to the water too, such as Caerfi Farm near St Davids, Trefalen Farm in Bosherton and Point Farm in Dale. Dale is home to the social enterprise Windswept Watersports, which offers SUP lessons, and the bay here is particularly ideal for beginner paddlers (head to the Griffin afterwards for fresh seafood and a pint).
Further along the coast, Tenby is another paddleboarding hotspot. Nearby in Saundersfoot is the Good Trails paddleboard school, at Coppet Hall Beach Centre, which has a cafe (camp or stay at beachside Wiseman’s Bridge Inn).
Rounding the serpent-like backbone of Worm’s Head, past the glorious sandy beaches of Gower (lessons and hire with Standup Paddle Gower) into Swansea Bay, I encountered the first section of the coastline with towns, cities and industry. Surprisingly, I felt ready to re-enter civilisation, though the significant tide ranges and flows of the Bristol Channel are a challenge. Passing the historic giant cranes of Port Talbot, I had one final photoshoot of the colourful arcades of Porthcawl, finishing off with fish and chips at Beales.
As the coastal section of my book research drew to a close in Cardiff, I enjoyed some downtime exploring the cultural gems of the capital city. Paddling along vibrant Cardiff Bay and the River Taff, I passed landmarks such as the riverside home of Welsh rugby union and the fairytale turrets of Castell Coch. It was a fitting finale to an unforgettable coastal adventure.
Paddle Boarding Wales: 100 Best Places to SUP, Canoe and Kayak by Lisa Drewe is out now (Wild Things, £18.99). To support the Guardian and Observer, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply
