Today’s recipe has been on our menu at Poco in Bristol for the past 12 years, so it has really survived the test of time, having been handed down from chef to chef over the years and now to the new owners, who recently took the place on. It’s a delicious way to use up leftover boiled potatoes, or a glut of potatoes. We served this all year round, using different varieties over the course of the year depending on what was in season, from waxy news to fluffy desirees. All are delicious in their own right, but new potatoes are my favourite here; if you want a more classic, crisp roast potato, though, larger, fluffy varieties such as maris piper, desiree and king edward work best.
Portuguese punched potatoes
This is now my go-to roast potato recipe. I never peel a vegetable unless I really have to, which can be a little tricky when you want to make something like roast potatoes, because to cook them unpeeled is a bit controversial – or at least it is in my family. That said, this approach really ticks all the boxes for a delicious roast potato. The split potatoes go super-crisp in all the little crevices, and their fluffy flesh is accentuated by the rough edges of caramelised and crisp skin, so creating a very appealing variety of textures. (If you are starting with raw potatoes, simply cut out and discard any sprouts and/or green patches first, boil the potatoes whole and skin on until they are soft enough to crush, then drain well.)
And when it comes to roasting the potatoes, remember that ovens are energy-intensive, so consider cooking them alongside other dishes; and if you want to make only a small portion, try shallow-frying them instead, to save energy. They are a different beast, true, but they’re still very delicious and how we often used to cook them at Poco.
Serves 1
150-200g boiled skin-on potatoes
½-1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
For the seasoning (optional)
1 small garlic clove, peeled and crushed
½ tsp finely grated lemon zest
¼ tsp spices of your choice (crushed coriander and/or cumin seeds, smoked paprika, say)
½ tsp hardy herb leaves (thyme, rosemary, oregano), roughly chopped
Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Scale up the ingredients depending on how many portions of potatoes you want. Put the potatoes on a baking tray, then half crush them with the palm of your hand (or use the back of a large spoon) so they split open but just about still hold together. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil to taste, toss to coat and roast for about 45 minutes, until the potatoes start to crisp up and turn golden brown.
Meanwhile, make an optional seasoning from various storecupboard ingredients, again scaling up the quantities according to how many you’re cooking for. In a small bowl, mix the crushed garlic, lemon zest, spices and herbs. Once the potatoes have had their 45 minutes, scatter the seasoning over the top, toss again and return to the oven for a final 15 minutes, until the potatoes are nice and crisp. Finish with a generous seasoning of sea salt and serve immediately.
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