This article first appeared on Vogue Business. Sign up to receive the Vogue Business newsletter for the latest luxury news and insights, plus exclusive membership discounts.
After a seven-year run, Hedi Slimane is leaving Celine.
“Under his creative and artistic direction, Celine has experienced exceptional growth and established itself as an iconic French couture house,” Celine said in a statement on Wednesday. “The extraordinary journey taken together over the last seven years has made Celine a house with a formidable foundation for the future.” No name of a successor has been announced.
Slimane became artistic, creative and image director of Celine in February 2018, after Phoebe Philo’s departure. He was previously artistic director of menswear at Yves Saint Laurent until 2000, when he joined Dior Homme. This is where he created the skinny silhouette that famously prompted Karl Lagerfeld to go on a diet. Slimane left Dior in 2007 and returned to Yves Saint Laurent in 2012 as creative director, where he cut “Yves” from the name immediately before his first show. He left in 2016.
At Celine, he dropped the accent over the “e” in Céline and introduced a new logo before his first show. His debut for Spring/Summer 2019 (where he added menswear) received “a raucous chorus of criticism”, wrote The Washington Post’s Robin Givhan. “In a single evening, he has blown up everything that Celine was, flushed it clean. His name might not be on the label, but in every other respect, the brand might as well be called Hedi Slimane,” Givhan wrote. For AW19, he shifted to a bourgeois French girl look. This time, “it was a near-unanimous oui,” Vogue Runway’s Sarah Mower wrote.
At the LVMH annual earnings conference in January 2018, soon after the announcement of Slimane’s appointment, LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault said: “The objective with him is to reach at least €2 billion to €3 billion, and perhaps more, within five years.” At the time, Celine’s sales were close to €1 billion. Five years later, sales reached an estimated €2.6 billion in 2023, per HSBC, making it LVMH’s third largest fashion brand after Louis Vuitton and Dior — overtaking Fendi in terms of revenue. Slimane oversaw the introduction of Celine fragrances in 2019, and makeup (initially in the form of a lipstick line) is slated to follow this autumn.
