One of the things that pops up like clockwork every summer is the focus on barbecues as we approach the Fourth of July. I don’t get it myself. How many of you host a flag-waving all-American barbecue with a stars and stripes cake? Any self-respecting griller has been at it since April, at least – well, maybe not this sodden spring, but on the odd occasion the rains have let up – and will carry on doing so well into the autumn.
As those of you who are enthusiasts will know, cooking over coals lends itself to all sorts of flavours and techniques, far beyond burgers and bangers. It might be a fishy feast with prawns, squid and scallops. It might be cauliflower steaks with a spicy dressing and all manner of grilled veg. It might be Middle Eastern, it might be Thai …
Wine-wise, too, how many of you stick to American, or more specifically, Californian wines when you barbecue? The choice is dispiritingly limited over here. Though I am a fan of South African wines with a braai, it doesn’t even have to be New World. There’s no reason why you can’t drink a Côtes du Rhône with a barbecue, for example, as Hannah Crosbie suggests in her refreshingly unstuffy book Corker, in which she usefully suggests wines to match different social occasions. Tesco’s finest Signargues is a habitual favourite of mine but if you want to impress, as Crosbie suggests you might, try the gloriously vibrant Gramiller in today’s picks.
When it comes to rosé, darker, stronger-tasting styles such as a Spanish monastrell come into their own. They may be less fashionable than the whisper-pink Provençal style (though that is great with grilled fish) but they can handle sweet/spicy marinades and a bit of char. The strong, savoury Torre de Ferro Dao Rosé 2022 that Lidl has on sale at the moment for £6.49 is another good bet.
White wines also need to be bold rather than subtle. (These days a barbecue rarely comes without at least one punchily dressed Ottolenghi-style salad). Morrisons has some particularly good deals at the moment, including the verdeca I’ve picked today, but the smooth, fruity Santodeno Grillo 2022 from Sicily on promotion at £7, and also at Asda, is worth buying too. Just as an aside, Asda and Morrisons are frequently as good, if not better, value for wine than Aldi and Lidl and have a better range. Just sayin’.
Five bottles to take to a barbecue
Deluxe South African Fairtrade Sauvignon Blanc 2023 £5.75 Lidl, 13%.A fresh citrussy sauvignon at a ridiculously good price. Perfect for a fishy barbecue.
Morrisons The Best Verdeca 2021 on offer for £6 Morrisons, 12.5%.Smooth, lush Italian white that looks a lot more expensive than it is.
Wine Atlas Monastrell Rosado 2023 £6.50 Asda, 12.5%. Full-flavoured, deep coloured Spanish rosé that could take a fair bit of spice in its stride.
Domaine Gramiller 2022 Côtes du Rhône £18.95 Swig, 13%. Joyously juicy Rhône red that also has the wow factor. Natural without being funky.
The Society’s South African Pinotage-Syrah Coastal Region 2023 £9.95 The Wine Society, 13%. Pinotage can be a bit coarse on its own but syrah adds structure and finesse. Lip-smackingly juicy.
