Sometimes I think I spend too much time on TikTok, then I get recommended products like the Biodance collagen mask and suddenly I feel like my aimless scrolling was worth it. For weeks, I stumbled upon videos of girls applying some creamy-white sheet mask to their face mid-flight. Fast-forward to landing, the mask became completely transparent. Akin to a snake shedding its skin, the TikToker would peel the finished mask from their face to reveal a bouncy, glowing complexion. Initially, I considered the mask superfluous—something akin to the word “fetch,” for those trying to make an in-flight skincare routine happen, as opposed to it being an actually effective product. Then, one day I couldn’t take it anymore and placed an Amazon order at an ungodly hour. Perhaps an overnight, collagen sheet mask was worth exploring after all.
Most people are likely well-aware of the benefits of collagen in skincare. “Collagen is really critical to our health because it makes up 30% of all of the protein in our bodies,” Josh Axe, DNM, a clinical nutritionist, previously told my Vogue colleague, beauty editor-at-large Arden Fanning Andrews. He went on to say that because our collagen reserves decline around age 25, anyone looking to replenish those reserves is to consume it via collagen supplements. And while I’ve seen improvements in my skin and hair growth via elixirs by Vital Proteins and Hum Nutrition, I hadn’t considered applying collagen topically; and if I’m honest, I wasn’t sure it would even be as effective.
What does a collagen face mask do?
“A collagen face mask allows for topical application of hydrating ingredients for a prolonged period of time,” Dr. Mina Amin, MD tells me. “Contrary to popular belief, these masks are not actually going to stimulate collagen production.” Collagen, she continues, is difficult to be absorbed into topically due to its high molecular weight. “The masks are great for hydration, but will likely not have the lasting effects that people are hoping for.”
Does the Biodance collagen mask really work?
While I realized my freshly-delivered Biodance mask would not actually stimulate cellular collagen production for lasting firming and plumping of the skin, I decided to test it anyway. Per dermatologist Dr. Brendan Camp, MD, the buzzy treatment still has a some worthwhile merits. Remember: sheet masks work by improving skin hydration. “As an occlusive, sheet masks trap moisture into the skin,” he says. “The result is skin that temporarily glows brighter, looks more youthful, and feels softer.”
Aside from hydrolyzed collagen, there is galactomyces ferment filtrate—featured to improve skin tone and texture. Niacinamide is also featured, and cited by Camp as useful to “ability to even skin tone, reduce inflammation, and reduce the appearance of pores.” Of equal importance is the inclusion of hyaluronic acid which Camp says “improves skin hydration by improving the ability of skin cells to retain and attract moisture.” Put all of these bits together and you have a sort of miracle treatment that nourishes, smooths, and brightens skin in a matter of hours.
Hours—yes, you read that right. Unlike traditional sheet masks, which requires upwards of 20 minutes to work, the Biodance mask recommends three to four hours of wear—or best case, overnight. And so, as instructed, I cleansed my skin (double cleansed, for what its worth), toned (thank you, SK-II), and unwrapped the sheet mask. Crafted from a gel-like material, the mask arrives in two pieces so I placed the top half across my forehead and eyes, then the bottom half around my mouth and chin. While many masks do not fit flush against the skin, this sank down with ease—making it easy to multitask and lay down in bed. Instantly cooling, my skin felt quickly refreshed. And though I had to skip my nightly moisturizer, my skin felt more hydrated than ever without the face mask budging or slipping down my face. Two hours in, I opened my phone camera to check its progress. As you wear it, the mask starts to become clear—a signifier that the ingredients are soaking in from the gel onto your skin. Before I knew it, I was awoken by my alarm with the mask still in place (a shock to a stomach-sleeper like me). Like the aforementioned TikToks that persuaded me to buy the mask in the first place, I peeled of the finished product with ease—no longer a gel texture, but rather thin film. My jaw dropped when I saw my complexion. The congestion and enlarged pores I had on my forehead the night before had vanished. My skin felt baby soft to touch and incredibly bouncy like I just emerged from my esthetician’s chair.
Though experts say hydrolyzed collagen is still too large to penetrate the skin to have lasting anti-aging benefits on the skin, Amin says that its role as a humectant helped create my newfound plump, youthful glow. And honestly, that’s more than enough for me. Trust, I’ll be stocking up on this bad boy for sure.
Meet The Experts
- Mina Amin, MD, is a Los Angeles-based dermatologist at California Dermatology Specialists.
- Brendan Camp, MD, is double board-certified in dermatology and dermatopathology and sees patients at MDCS Dermatology in New York.
