Ask Ottolenghi: what’s a good substitute for citrus? | Food

My partner is a fussy eater, and doesn’t like the taste or smell of citrus. There’s a lot of it in your cooking, so I was wondering if there’s any good substitute?
Manon, Lancaster
There are loads, so I hope he won’t object to other sharp, fruity flavours, because they’re my go-to. One of my favourites is tamarind. I prefer the sort that comes in a block, which you soak in hot water for 30 minutes. That way, not only do you get the softened tamarind, you can also use the soaking liquid much as you would lemon juice in dressings or to stir through a dish during or at the end of cooking. If you want instant tamarind, meanwhile, there are numerous jarred pastes out there, but be aware that some are saltier than others, so you might have to adjust the seasoning accordingly.

Pomegranate molasses is another staple in my cupboard, and it’s what I usually reach for when I’ve run out of citrus (and/or don’t have time to soak tamarind). It keeps its sharp flavour even after cooking, though I more often add it to dressings and marinades.

Then there’s the huge range of vinegars with varying levels of sharpness and fruitiness. My three mainstays are apple cider, sherry and moscatel vinegars, which as a trio would be as good an introduction to the world of vinegar as any.

Spice wise, look especially to sumac and amchoor. Dark, crimson sumac is tangy and citrussy, but not in a way that will put anyone off – try it sprinkled on scrambled eggs and take it from there. Amchoor, meanwhile, is dried mango powder, and it’s great for bringing some sharp acidity to a dish. It’s also noticeably fruity, and a vital component of chaat masala spice blend.

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