Yes, there’s the “r” rule – that is, the guidance that we’re meant to eat shellfish only during months with an “r”’ in their name – but I’m as much about the “s” rule: that is, seasonal, sustainably sourced shellfish, whatever the month. Typically steamed until their shells open up, mussels are generally on the table in less than 15 minutes. Super-speedy September suppers clocks up another four “s”s to add to that list.
Steamed mussels in a spicy-smoky broth (pictured top)
Lapsang souchong tea might seem a niche ingredient, but it’s actually a bit of a secret flavour hack, so is very handy to have in the cupboard. It’s so smoky, in fact, that it brings all the benefits of smoke without any need for fire. Serve with crunchy fresh baguette.
Prep 25 min
Cook 15 min
Serves 2
500g mussels, cleaned and rinsed under cold water
3 tbsp olive oil
75g Thai red curry paste
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 banana shallot (40g), peeled and cut into thin rounds
1 leek, white end only, thinly sliced (100g)
¾ tsp light brown sugar
Fine sea salt and black pepper
2 lapsang souchong teabags
1½ tbsp mayonnaise
1 tsp lime juice
20g dill leaves, roughly chopped
Baguette, to serve
Put the mussels in a colander and rinse again under cold, running water for a minute, to refresh.
Put a medium saucepan for which you have a lid on a medium-high heat. Once it’s hot, add the oil and curry paste and fry for two minutes, stirring and scraping, until the paste starts to stick to the pan and the oil turns red. Stir in the garlic and cook for 30 seconds, until sizzling and fragrant. Add the shallot, leek, sugar, a half-teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper, and cook, stirring often, for four minutes, until the vegetables have softened.
Add the mussels, teabags and 300ml water, cover with the lid and cook for two to three minutes, until all the mussels have opened (remove and discard any that do not). Take the pan off the heat and stir in the mayonnaise, lime juice and half the dill.
Divide the mix between two bowls, sprinkle the remaining dill on top and serve with good baguettes for dipping.
Mussels alla vodka
This dish crosses countries (Italy and America) and seasons (late-summer tomatoes and basil with autumn-facing seafood). It also somehow feels as if it has been bubbling away for hours, despite being ready in less than 15 minutes.
Prep 20 min
Cook 12 min
Serves 2 as a main, or 4 as a starter
30g unsalted butter
3 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
½ tsp fennel seeds
¼ tsp chilli flakes
Fine sea salt and black pepper
500g tomatoes, blitzed smooth
¼ tsp dried oregano
60ml vodka
1kg mussels, cleaned and rinsed under cold water
60ml double cream
1½ tbsp lemon juice
15g basil leaves
50g parmesan, finely grated, plus extra to serve
Bread for dipping
Put a large saucepan for which you have a lid on a medium-high heat. Add the butter, garlic, fennel seeds, chilli flakes and plenty of black pepper, and cook for a minute or two, swirling the pan frequently, until the garlic starts to turn golden and the butter is browning.
Add the blitzed tomatoes, oregano, vodka and a half-teaspoon of salt, bring to a simmer, then cook, stirring, for six minutes, until the sauce has reduced to a consistency just a bit thicker than a pasta sauce.
Stir in the mussels, cover the pan tightly and cook for two to three minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until the mussels have all opened up (remove and discard any that do not). Stir in the cream, lemon juice and two-thirds of the basil.
Serve the mussels straight from the pot, or in a large bowl, covering them first with the parmesan and remaining basil. Serve with extra parmesan on the side and bread for mopping up the sauce.
