Zhang adds that her key advice is to take your time and gradually build up the color. “Treat your brows as a whole, not just individual parts, to ensure they compliment your face,” she says. And don’t worry if it’s not perfect on the first try—brows can be tricky! “If you make a mistake, you can easily fix it with a little concealer along the edges,” Zhang advises.
How to choose the right color for you?
“Your brow pencil should closely match your hair color,” says celebrity brow stylist and esthetician Sania Vucetaj. If you prefer a softer look, opt for a lighter shade; for more definition, go slightly darker.
Your skin tone also plays a crucial role in finding the right brow color. “For those with deeper skin tones, avoid shades that are too light or have a reddish tint. Instead, deep brown or grey-black shades are ideal. If your skin tone is lighter, a light brown or subtle brown shade will beautifully enhance your features,” adds Zhang.
Zhang also notes that the size of your eyes is an important factor. If you have large, bright eyes, a bolder, deeper brow color can help balance proportions, and you might prefer a slightly thicker brow shape as well. On the other hand, if your eyes are smaller or have a softer appearance, a more muted brow color with a finer brow shape will complement them perfectly.
Microblading also plays a role in choosing your brow pencil. For those with semi-permanent makeup like microblading, it’s important to consider how your brows may have faded over time. Zhang advises that if your microblading has faded to a red undertone, you can neutralize it by using a smoky brow pencil to reduce the redness. Conversely, if it has faded to a blue undertone, use a brow pencil with a red to brown hue to balance the color.
Should you use an eyebrow pencil at the beginning or at the end of a makeup routine?
“Always start with your brows,” says Vucetaj. Defining your eyebrows first gives you a better sense of how much makeup you really need. “A well-shaped brow can brighten your face, often reducing the need for additional makeup,” she explains. Brow pencils also last longer when applied to bare skin rather than on top of other products. Additionally, starting with your brows helps keep products like foundation, which can damage the brow follicle, away from that area.
Can you use an eyebrow pencil with a brow gel?
Yes! “You can set your brows by using a gel after filling them in,” says Ortega. This is a great option for those who need to shape their brows more and fill in the gaps. For those with already well-shaped brows, you can use an eyebrow gel to set them first and then fill in any gaps with a pencil—this approach is perfect for achieving a laminated eyebrow look.
For a fluffy, full brow, Zhang recommends starting with a brow gel or tint. “I’m particularly fond of gels that include brow fibers—they work wonders in building up your brows to their fullest potential,” she says. When choosing a brow gel, Zhang suggests opting for one that’s a shade lighter than your natural hair color. “This helps create a softer, more refined look.”
Meet The Experts
- Kelly Zhang is a celebrity makeup artist based in Los Angeles and NYC.
- Maria Ortega is a makeup artist based in NYC.
- Sania Vucetaj is a celebrity brow stylist and licensed esthetician based in NYC.
