MILAN — Milan designers are reflecting on a troubled world with collections that mark a return to serious business attire, even from active wear brands, and away from frivolity.
Some scenes from the third day of previews Sunday of mostly menswear collections for fall-winter 2024-25:
Italian brand Simon Cracker explores the moment before drifting off to sleep, as the best respite from a troubling world.
The nearly 14-year-old brand by designers Simone Botte and Filippo Biraghi works entirely with upcycled garments and reclaimed remnants. For this collection, the designers achieved harmony by dyeing the garments together, creating a dreamy pinkish blue of a sunset.
Colors bleed together, and become a bit blurry, as if seeing through closed eyes. The silhouette is slouchy, as if giving up after a long day. Men’s tailoring defines the collection, but jackets are deconstructed with one shoulder off, a new half-collar taking its place.
Garments are dusted with a glimmering sheen, as if visited by the sandman. Big bold pearls accent the looks, representing the moon. Denim garments were hand painted by British designer Sue Cloes, known for the 1981 Culture Club designs.
The treatments gave the collection a cohesion that the designers said that many interpreted as elegance — which isn’t necessarily their goal. They prefer to shake things up.
“Rebellion does not necessarily come from making noise, rather maybe it comes more from quiet, from reflection,” Biraghi said backstage. “There is still kindness. Kindness is the most revolutionary thing there is.”
K-Way, the Franco-Italian brand synonymous with windbreaker with a tri-colored striped zipper, is continuing its evolution from outerwear into the luxury ready-to-wear space with a new collection that pops with color.
Furry parkas, quilted jackets and layered windbreakers anchor the collection. The female silhouette is fitted and business-like, including quilted bustier over a shirt and tie with a long skirt, or a form-hugging midi dress accented by the brand’s iconic zipper. The men’s silhouette is more casual, quilted jacket and Bermuda set, or long pants with a midi-length matching coats. The looks came in sequential monotones of navy, royal blue, red, ice blue and white.
“This is a moment to show the capability of the brand, and to show different ways to wear our iconic zipper and pieces,’’ said marketing vice president Lorenzo Boglione, whose family controls the BasicNet parent company.
K-Way is moving toward using entirely recycled materials in the next few years.
“For us it is a responsibility, not a selling point,’’ Boglione said.
