In America, there is only one Madonna, and it’s mega-popstar, actor, and fashion icon Madonna Louise Veronica Ciccone. The same is not entirely true for Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Of course, there’s the Madonna, who first wore Dolce & Gabbana in 1991, to promote her documentary Truth or Dare, and is still wearing the label three decades later. But there’s also the original meaning of the word, which translates to “my lady” in an older form of Italian.
The house’s spring 2025 show paid tribute to both the star herself and other beloved ladies from the D&G firmament. “Madonna has always been one of our icons,” the designers tell Vogue exclusively after the show. Describing the other women who inspired the collection, they add: “The woman of this season is the one from the cinema, the great diva of the past, the pin-up: a woman who has always played with her personality, while always remaining true to herself.”
The references were clear from the moment you slipped behind the scenes at the Metropol in Milan. The backstage espresso bar—a decidedly Italian experience that I haven’t seen at New York or Paris-based shows—was filled with models mid-transformation, giggling while getting in their last sips of caffeine, as hits from True Blue, Like a Prayer, and Erotica played.
The hair of every single model, from Mona and Vittora to Mariacarla and Anok, was slicked back into a lace-front platinum blonde wig dyed to match Madonna’s iconic 1990s shade. “Blonde, blonde, blonde, and blonde again,” the designers say playfully of the look, which included a plain black headband. Pre-styled into pin curls, each wig was held firmly in place using creaseless clips. Wang Fei couldn’t stop checking herself out in the mirror, noting it was the first time she’d ever seen herself blonde. (The jury’s still out on whether she’d ever take the plunge herself.)
From there, makeup (all Dolce & Gabanna Beauty, which launched in the US mid-last year) only added to each model’s metamorphosis. It started with the Blueberry Nutri-Tint Hydra-Glow & Fresh Skin Tint—but the dramatic liner (That’s My Line! 24H Lasting Waterproof Eyeliner) created a sharp line that felt both cinematically Italian and Madonna. Next, Everkiss Liquid Lip was applied, and each model got almond-shaped press-ons in a matching lipgloss-style finish.